Knock Knock!! - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #16 of 74 Old 09-04-2014, 09:05 PM
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I am very interested in the headers and up pipe/EWG if they will fit my car.
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post #17 of 74 Old 09-04-2014, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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no smoke at all. just shut off. The starter hasnt got the power to turn the motor over. ill find out more on saturday...
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post #18 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 06:17 AM
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its a plain old cobb stage 2 tune...and since i did the ring lands its only been 1200 miles. Im pretty sure when the ring land cracked and it ran low on oil it caused the bearing issue, but when i pulled the motor and heads and put the new pistons in there was NOTHING as far as metal shavings or anything for that matter in the pan or in the heads. i never split the block and or disconnected the connecting rods cause there was no visible damage to anything. I pushed the wrist pins out through the access hole in the block. replaced the piston that was cracked and a new set of rings. How would the tune cause a spun bearing? thats usually due to lack of oil which i had happen when the ring land cracked.
psinuse your 2l and my 2.5 or not the same engine. i new motor from subaru is your suggestion? i think ill tear the motor down and see what the problem is before i waste 6grand.
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post #19 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 08:46 AM
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psinuse builds them. A 2.34 L motor is a hybrid motor with a 2.0L crank in a 2.5L block.

It has an attractive bore / stroke ratio for high rpms and awesome for motorsports.
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post #20 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 09:16 AM
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A hybrid build is next on my to do list.

Ill hit you up when the time comes Keith .
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post #21 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LW_Black4 View Post
psinuse builds them. A 2.34 L motor is a hybrid motor with a 2.0L crank in a 2.5L block.

It has an attractive bore / stroke ratio for high rpms and awesome for motorsports.


Thanks for explaining that to me, cause i didnt know that. Im still learning a lot about this stuff. Ive been told i need to look at the casting number to make sure i dont have a 704 block, and if i do it has to be sent out for reinforcement.
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post #22 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 03:57 PM
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Okay I have a couple questions and then I can try and help you figure out what's going on.
1) Now the first motor had bearing failure correct?
2) Did you buy a new motor or just replace the bearing?
3) Did you replace the oil cooler after said bearing failure?
4) When it had the ring land failure did you just replace the piston and rings?

The reason I said the tune, is because knock can cause bearings to fail and if you have lots of knock then you can see where that is going. The reason for this is the added vibrational (big word score in scrabble by the way) stress caused by knock, which is called pre-ignition, is send down through the rod and into the crank, which the force of the knock is actually trying to push the piston back down the hole before it reaches it's full rotation. That added stress will easily destroy a bearing quickly. Now I'm not trashing Cobb or anything, but every car is different.
I'd highly recommend finding a 702 casting. Those are what I try and use, but that's personal preference.
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post #23 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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PSINUSE!! Dood that makes so much sense!!!! Had the knock sensor going off like crazy for a long time before it ever started with the rod knock. Pulled the motor and didnt see any signs on metal shaving or damage in the oil pan or in the heads on the cam journals(all before it started with the rod knock). I never split the case or pulled the connecting rods to see if it had any damage to the bearing. Put 2 new pistons in and a new set of rings. Drove it for 1200 miles and everything ran great and sounded good. then one morning i go to leave for work and start it and it sounds like marbles were rolling around in the bottom end. Im willing to bet the initial ring land crack and knock caused damage to the bearing and it took it a while before it started to make noise. I have two blocks here, where do i look to find the casting number? i looked on one and didnt see 702, 703 or 704

to answer your questions, this is still the first motor, we did the pistons and rings first cause i was getting a missfire code and my knock sensor was going off like crazy. we have never put any bearing in it, only the two pistons and ring set because i didnt realize that the knock from the cracked ring land could cause bearing damage as well. And yes i caused the ring lands to crack. cobb sf intake with the TP ots tune cause it to over boost. Im fairly certain thats what burned the ring land due to it running lean which then lead to all these other problems
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post #24 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 04:19 PM
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Look on the top of the block. See image below. It should say 702 B25C and that is an USDM STi block. 701's are the EJ255 not the EJ257
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post #25 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 04:23 PM
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p.s. The car doesn't hate you.
p.s.s. Also you should replace the oil cooler. That thing traps all the fine particles in it and then when you go to drop a new motor in those particles find there way into your new motor and guess what happens then? Yes they are pricey. I think Subaru charges $235 for them....damn dealerships.
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post #26 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 06:06 PM
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Pretty much everything that comes into contact with oil needs to be cleaned after a spun bearing.
Like Keith said replace the oil cooler for sure.
You'll never get the old one 100% clean.

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post #27 of 74 Old 09-05-2014, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yea oil cooler is surely going to be replaced, hopefully there is no damage to the heads. Im lucky enough to work for the dealer so ill get the part at 10% over cost. still pricey but worth it. Turn out the spare block i have is a B25C 704... womp womp. cant see the number on the one thats in the car yet. ill find out on saturday
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post #28 of 74 Old 09-09-2014, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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So heres the parts list so far :

Manly B series drop in pistons
Sti/WRX OEM crankshaft- they are the same PN in the subaru parts catalog.
Manly H-tuff Rods
King rod and crank bearings
STI oil pump

i have a spare OEM 704 casting block im going to use. I will probably port n polish the wastegate on the turbo so if anyone knows of a tutorial that would be greeeat lol.

there is no oil cooler on the car right now, should i look into getting one?
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post #29 of 74 Old 09-09-2014, 11:46 AM
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I dont have one either. I looked into it and unless you are doing track runs and such you dont need one. Oil temp gauge will do fine.

Maybe someone else will chime in to confirm this as well.
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post #30 of 74 Old 09-09-2014, 11:52 AM
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To put a oil cooler on your WRX you would have to get a STI water pump, various oem hoses & elbows, and a STI oil cooler. The USDM 08+ WRX don't have a factory oil cooler but the STI does. Subaru still uses the oil cooler on the JDM 08+ WRX though. You would have to change the water pump because there is no outlet on yours for the coolant to flow to the oil cooler. You could also tap into somewhere else instead of buying another pump. Probably not worth all that trouble when you could just buy a external cooler if you even needed a cooler anyway.

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