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-   -   It's knocking... What should I replace? (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/its-knocking-what-should-i-replace-27823/)

connsonar 12-19-2009 09:19 PM

It's knocking... What should I replace?
 
Hi, first time posting here so bear with me. I have stock 05 WRX. Engine quit on my and the shop says it either a bearing on a rod joint. In a nut shell I need a new engine. So question is do i find another 2.0L and strap it on hoping this doesn't happen again in 20k miles or do i get the 2.5 block? If i go with a 2.5 block, what do i need to do that? Can I just have them put that short-block on with a few new gaskets or do the heads need to be changed out? should I change the heads anyway? Do i have to worry about the tranny with a 2.5? Any input is appreciated!

VD5505 12-20-2009 07:32 AM

Well there are alot of posts on here that talk about the 2.5 hybrid, now since i have done it 3 times for me and friends I know that it is a really good option to go with. We will need to know a few things first,

~What have you all done to the car so far?
~What are you willing to spend?
~How much power are you looking to get out of the car?

connsonar 12-20-2009 01:47 PM

The car is a completely stock 05' WRX Premium sedan. I am not really looking for more power at this point, just to get it running. I want to make this a project car with my brother when i get it paid off but i don't have the money to dump into lots of upgrades right now. I have a third party warranty on the car and they are going to give me an undetermined amount of money for parts and all the money on labor. Beyond that I am trying to keep upgrade costs to a minimum.

What i am running into is a lack of 2.0L used short blocks with low mileage and i would prefer with the engine already apart to upgrade the block/piston/rods in prep for more tuning in two years or so.

VD5505 12-20-2009 06:24 PM

Well if you go with the 2.5 short block its about $1,900 i know a place that will hook you up with a free engine gasket kit as well if you buy the short block from them, Then you run into the problem of buying bigger fuel injectors, fuel pump, some sort of engine management, you would really want to go with like a 18g nothing smaller than that though.

Or you could call the dealership and see how much a 2.0 cost then buy some nice forged pistons and cams, valve springs and some head work and have a really nice 2.0, then later on down the road when you have money you could buy something like a 18g or so on, just a couple ideas to throw at ya.

turmic 12-21-2009 06:36 PM

There is a lot of variables to answer this correctly. Like how much money are they going to give you? When you say project car, do you have ball park hp numbers? Do you want a built up 2.0 EJ that can rev up high? More TQ out of a 2.5 Hybrid? Either way...forged pistons, rods, and better barrings wouldn't be a bad idea to put those in the new engine before its installed. I'm not sure beefing up a used engine is a good idea. Most engine builders use crate engines or low mileage engines to upgrade.

VD5505 12-21-2009 07:32 PM

there is nothing wrong with building up a used engine at all unless the cylinder walls are tore up or something. Connecting rods would not have to be up graded if you plan on using a 18g or 20g, people are using stock rods even with a gt30 and gt35. The best thing you can do is to get rid of those stock pistons and trust me cause i have broke two of them so far in my days of building these engine and racing my car. Then next comes valve train, this is where you will make or break your build, do not cheap out and not go with a good set of cams and springs.

turmic 12-21-2009 07:57 PM

VD5505: It'd depend on the engine and how well the person puts it back together. I guess. I was just saying most engine builders prefer low mileage or crate engines. Some engine builders and DIY's will build up a used engine if its in good shape. Rods don't need to be changed. But, I mean your in there. You might as well, put in a nice performance rod that could handle more abuse than the STI forged rods. Considering he might be working on a budget...he could skip that step though. I know that VD5505, you know you stuff. Thanks for making me clarify what I was trying to say.

VD5505 12-21-2009 09:19 PM

Yea it just sucks when you build these cause there is always something out there that is better and stronger then you know what the means more $$ when i put my two engines together for my WRX the money really started to add up, the funny thing is i bought my WRX just for a daily driver and never really thought about racing it cause we have a drag car anyways lol, but it's worth it in the end though thats for sure haha

connsonar 12-22-2009 10:11 AM

Thanks for all the info. I am getting a much better idea of what the minimum 2.5 swap entails. I probably will end up with a 2.0 block and upgrading pistons/bearings, depending on what is actually wrong with mine. I will post again when I get more info after the holidays. Thanks again!

turmic 12-22-2009 11:45 AM

Cool. Good luck with it. If you don't mind sharing your engine build. I'm sure people would like to check it out. Happy Holidays.

VD5505: Exactly...lol.

Scuba-Scooby 12-29-2009 10:57 AM

Hey I just had the same thing happen. #3 bearing failed. I choose not to go with a usde block as you never know what it has been through. New Subaru sort block $$.

I went with a 2.2 stroker kit. More economical and will increase a little power and torque. Only down fall, I believe you will have to be tuned..

c2bcoolwrx 12-29-2009 03:37 PM

I am sure I have posted this here before, but here is my "guide" or my parts list for my hybrid build:

Basic Hybrid Swap (prices are what I paid back in Aug '08):

1) EJ257 Shortblock = $1850
2) Timing Belt = $150
3) Water Pump = $120
4) ARP Head Studs = $195
5) 2.5L Oil Pump = $150
6) Cosworth Headgasket = $150
7) Shims/buckets or Bucketless shims (depending on block year) = I got mine for free, but normally around $350 (I think).
8) Tune (Dyno + Road Tune) = $500
9) Various Gaskets/misc = $100
10) Injectors - stock EJ205/2.0L injectors do not flow enough (you need at least 565cc injectors; some used '06-07 WRX injectors)

Total = $3215 ($3565 if you include the cost of the shims)

And thats if you build it yourself.

If you want to do a little extra like I did, add:

Cams (Kelford 264/264) = $900
CP Pistons = $520 (Forged Pistons are a must IMHO)
Valve Springs/Retainers = $225
Clutch Disk = $145
TMIC = $700 - $800 new, $300 - $400 used (FMIC +$)
Blouch TD05H-18G 8cm w/PnP & Coat = $1100
DW Injectors = $260 - $290 (after $100 rebate)
Walbro 255 FP w/install Kit = $90

Still got to factor in $1500 - $2000 for labor if your not doing the build yourself. As you can see the costs add up very quickly and out the door w/labor you end up paying between $7000 - $8000 or more depending on taxes, labor charges, dyno/tuning fees, etc. Now those prices I posted above may not be rock bottom, but that is what I paid and was back in August of '08 before the economy really took a ****.

Hope that helps you guys out. I think that is a fairly complete list, but if I missed anything please let me know and I am sure I can find my paperwork/documentation that has my parts/prices. If you have any more questions regarding my build just ask. Oh and here is a link to my dyno chart if anyone is interested:

[url]http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/c2bcool/SCAN2927_000.jpg[/url] (very conservative tune at 16PSI on a dynojet for my weak 5-speed's sake)

airflot10 01-21-2010 01:05 PM

[quote=c2bcoolwrx;237708]I am sure I have posted this here before, but here is my "guide" or my parts list for my hybrid build:

Basic Hybrid Swap (prices are what I paid back in Aug '08):

1) EJ257 Shortblock = $1850
2) Timing Belt = $150
3) Water Pump = $120
4) ARP Head Studs = $195
5) 2.5L Oil Pump = $150
6) Cosworth Headgasket = $150
7) Shims/buckets or Bucketless shims (depending on block year) = I got mine for free, but normally around $350 (I think).
8) Tune (Dyno + Road Tune) = $500
9) Various Gaskets/misc = $100
10) Injectors - stock EJ205/2.0L injectors do not flow enough (you need at least 565cc injectors; some used '06-07 WRX injectors)

Total = $3215 ($3565 if you include the cost of the shims)

And thats if you build it yourself.

If you want to do a little extra like I did, add:

Cams (Kelford 264/264) = $900
CP Pistons = $520 (Forged Pistons are a must IMHO)
Valve Springs/Retainers = $225
Clutch Disk = $145
TMIC = $700 - $800 new, $300 - $400 used (FMIC +$)
Blouch TD05H-18G 8cm w/PnP & Coat = $1100
DW Injectors = $260 - $290 (after $100 rebate)
Walbro 255 FP w/install Kit = $90

Still got to factor in $1500 - $2000 for labor if your not doing the build yourself. As you can see the costs add up very quickly and out the door w/labor you end up paying between $7000 - $8000 or more depending on taxes, labor charges, dyno/tuning fees, etc. Now those prices I posted above may not be rock bottom, but that is what I paid and was back in August of '08 before the economy really took a ****.

Hope that helps you guys out. I think that is a fairly complete list, but if I missed anything please let me know and I am sure I can find my paperwork/documentation that has my parts/prices. If you have any more questions regarding my build just ask. Oh and here is a link to my dyno chart if anyone is interested:

[url]http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp33/c2bcool/SCAN2927_000.jpg[/url] (very conservative tune at 16PSI on a dynojet for my weak 5-speed's sake)[/quote]


Very nice guide thank you








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mosc 01-21-2010 03:33 PM

Look, there is ZERO point in putting in a different shortblock if you're going to run everything else totally stock. The new shortblock will need custom tuning and I don't think you want to do this without exhaust mods. For example, your uppipe has a catalytic converter on it. No car using the EJ255 or EJ257 ever had one. it makes no sense to upgrade ONLY your engine.

So if you're not interested in modding anything else, replace stock parts with stock parts. Nuf said.

WTRacing 02-10-2010 06:19 PM

Connsonar did you ever get it running again and what did you do?


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