I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock - Page 8 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#106 Old 05-30-2011, 02:53 PM
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Ughh... Damn laptop just went back a page after I just wrote a freaking novel so here's the abbreviated version:

-100mm adds a bit of compression over the 99.5's so they have a higher rating from Wiseco.
-If you do springs, do valves as well. The springs are great to combat valve float at the higher rpm's you want, but they put more stress on the head of the valve. More seat pressure pulls the valve back into the head with more force, and over time I've heard of the head just snapping off the stock valves with upgraded springs.
-Build list looks good for the peak power, but if you care about your powerband you'll want to do more head work. Cams would be a minimum, but some porting and polishing goes a long way on WRX heads.

-Chris
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#107 Old 05-30-2011, 04:04 PM
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omg i hate that!!!!!!!!! specially on a cell phone if you bounce between pages to look up some info to add in, the page refreshes when you go back.

i just want safety (pistons). since bearings, studs, gasket set etc need bought already, a set of rods isnt that much more. but add head work and valves and such and the price goes up.

at least id want a 7000rpm redline (6800 now which isnt far off) which i believe would still require a spring set. but what your saying is the spring set needs or for safety should get valves reguardless of the RPM? guess ill look into the prices, maybe some BC valves. cams are out, $800 isnt needed to be safe although i understand the power.

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#108 Old 05-30-2011, 04:14 PM
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I spin 7k right now and I haven't had any issues. The valves I would just do if you upgrade the springs. The springs are a safety/power mod because the stock springs aren't the best for high rpm's and they will float a bit. If you do the springs then you're putting more stress on the valves, so I would recommend doing them to keep things happier in the long run. Either way you're pulling the heads and completely gutting them do to the springs, so the only added cost is the valves. The oem gasket kit has new valve seals and keepers, you would just need to replace the valve guides if they're bad, and those are about $100 for all 16. All in you're looking at maybe an extra $400 if you go with inconel exhaust and nitrided intake valves, closer to $250-300 if you just go with nitride on both. I'm going inconel on the exhaust because they are much more tolerant of high heat applications. I'm also coating the valve faces and combustion chambers like the top of my pistons.

-Chris
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#109 Old 05-30-2011, 09:25 PM
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who makes those? BC just calls theirs stainless steel.

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#110 Old 05-30-2011, 09:40 PM
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Chris is looking at some good valves. Because Cosworth uses the same kind Chris is talking about. Which is what I am contemplating switching too...if and when I get my head work done. But, who else makes them. I'll let Chris explain. He's been doing a lot more research into these than me lately. I stopped researching after I got my shortblock done. I should be doing the research, but I'm laying back and enjoying my car for a bit. Late summer I'll start thinking about doing my head work again. Because in the late fall or winter is when I'd want to do it.

Kirt
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"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#111 Old 05-30-2011, 09:57 PM
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Supertech Valves. They have both Inconel (an alloy) and Nitrided SS Valves for the exhaust, and then just Nitrided for Intake.

If you go with the inconel on the exhaust you're looking at about $370 for the full set, and about $300 if you go with nitrided for both.

-Chris
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#112 Old 06-07-2011, 08:12 AM
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Well I got all the parts for my upcoming work on the car:

All the stuff for the 30k service and some extra goodies:


Redline gear oil for the trans and rear diff, some VR1 Synthetic 10w-30 for the oil change (it has a rebate of $15 off a purchase of 6 quarts or a case: Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic Motor Oil - $15 Off Special Offer ), StopTech SS brake lines and ATE Super Blue Brake fluid.

The new fuel pump is also there but I'm not sure when I'll put that in. I need to get a Dremel first I suppose. Not in the picture are the engine mounts and power bleeder, I got those in Utah and sent them here with the movers. Not sure when all our stuff gets here so until it does I can't do any work on the car.

I did manage to get the passenger side GBOD off with my new ratcheting wrenches though. I'll do the driver's side when I get my tools as it looks like that one will be pretty easy with regular sockets and extensions.

-Chris
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#113 Old 06-07-2011, 09:44 AM
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Little FYI I saw on nasioc, the polarity points are switched on the aeromotive pumps!! You need to pull out the wires on your harness and switch them before you plug it in. Why they did that I don't know. My walbro has + and - on them so you can see that there backwards. OEM might not have them but the walbro is plug and play so that means both are on the same sides.

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#114 Old 06-07-2011, 05:49 PM
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Yeah I already knew that one... Few guys put them in without knowing and the pump was flowing backwards

-Chris
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#115 Old 06-07-2011, 07:22 PM
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what did it run you? still deciding on e85. pump is 12.8 miles away but wife will kill me having to drive her car everywhere. theres only 3 pumps within an hour of me, plus $20 more to equal 93 distance isnt good.

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#116 Old 06-07-2011, 09:58 PM
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VR1 is a good brand of oil though. It has some zinc in it. The bearings and such will appreciate it. Wow, nice information guys about the Aeromotive fuel pumps. Some people would be left scratching their heads if they didn't know that.

Kirt
378awhp/373wtq Custom Dom 3 & CBRD tuned 2006 STI.
"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#117 Old 06-08-2011, 08:04 AM
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I got the pump for a few bucks less than the DW.... My tuner back in Utah has a business license so he can order pretty much anything for me and he doesn't really take any profit (some but not much).

All in I paid about $530 for the engine mounts, 5 quarts of redline gear oil, 1L of ate super blue, fuel pump, stoptech brake lines F&R, motive power bleeder. He pretty much gets me 5% under most website's list prices shipped.

I also had to order a T-70 torx bit on amazon for $10 shipped and a Black & Decker rotary tool to modify the fuel pump housing for about $35 with a bunch of accessories and two clamps.

-Chris
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#118 Old 06-13-2011, 09:30 PM
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Got the trans fluid changed, rear diff fluid changed, and changed the oil. Sometime in the next week or two I'll be doing the brake lines/bleed brakes along with the engine mounts and replacing the rear end links.

The car shifts smooth as butter, which tells me to change my fluid every 20-25k because I noticed a bit more stiffness in the shifting effort in the last 10k or so miles. No issues in the oils as they were coming out too, they were still pretty clear, and both drain plugs from the trans and diff had much less on them than I'm used to seeing so that's a good thing. All in all the car is happy again, and should feel a bit better with a connected rear sway bar and the engine mounts.

On a depressing note:



My shelf is about full and I'm 1/3 of the way into this build. Sooooo much money for no gains so far. Over three grand on that shelf right now with 0hp gains.

-Chris

Last edited by RcrsWetDream; 06-13-2011 at 10:51 PM.
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#119 Old 06-18-2011, 03:53 PM
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Got the engine mounts installed today. Took about 2 hours because I had to take off my subframe brace to move my sway bar as it was in the way of the bolts on the bottom of the engine mount. If that wasn't in the way it probably would have been an hour and a half job at the worst.

Haven't driven the car yet but just sitting there revving the engine is seems a lot more secure. If you see the difference in the rubber between stock and group-n mounts you know it's going to do something.

Edit: I had time to take a quick spin... Can't say I felt a huge difference after the install, at least not like the transmission mount. The car does feel a bit more connected and throttle response is slightly better when getting into the gas around a corner or after a shift, but other than that I don't notice much. I'm going to bet when people do the engine and trans mounts all at once, 75-80% of what they feel is the trans mount.

-Chris

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#120 Old 06-20-2011, 08:23 AM
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Finally got my NE plates:


-Chris
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