I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock - Page 7 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#91 Old 04-28-2011, 04:44 PM
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Well obviously if you keep your injector fuel cycles down, you need less of a fuel pump. There's no point in buying massive injectors though to just throttle them back. I'm not recommending you max them out either, but buying injectors where you don't anticipate going beyond 60% duty cycle just means you bought superfluously large injectors. Worse, the usual reason for buying larger injectors (more room for later) you don't have because your fuel pump won't allow you to increase the duty cycle.

04 STi 16G powered lagless fun
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#92 Old 04-28-2011, 07:09 PM
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You're not getting me.

If I get the injectors and run them right now I'll be around 55%. That's with the stock vf52 on E85. Once I get the dom and drop the block in, I should be able to push the injectors all the way up to 100%, but plan on running no more than 90% IDC's for safety. Regardless my setup will be fuel limited, but I feel I will be quite happy what a nearly maxed Dom3 on a 9.1:1 CR block with built heads running E85 will produce.

The fuel pump can pump enough fuel to run the injectors at something like 110% IDC's so I know the pump will be fine for my needs. The only way I see myself needing to to a surge tank and in-line setup is if I want to track the car more than just the 1/8 track I have over here. If it ever sees a road course I wouldn't feel so confident in the 300lph in-tank setup.

-Chris
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#93 Old 04-28-2011, 07:49 PM
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That's one thing I never understood. The surge tank and in-line setups. I've seen a few WRXs/STIs with a in tank pump and a in-line pump. I didn't get the redundancy. Sorry, if this takes the topic off subject. But, you'd need this for road courses? There are a few things out there I don't understand and this is one of them.

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"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#94 Old 04-28-2011, 08:24 PM
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A surge tank gets fed by a lower powered pump. The larger pump than draws fuel out of the surge tank and on towards the engine.

Basically the surge tank is small enough that under hard cornering and what not the fuel can't slosh around as much so you have less chance of sucking air.

I did discover something about my car just now:



Left rear endlink snapped in a really odd spot... Emaiing Perrin now to see if they warranty it, but I've had it for over a year. Honestly I'll probably give the kartboy's a try if they don't warranty it.

-Chris
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#95 Old 04-28-2011, 08:52 PM
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Holy crap that looks bad.

So, a in-line pump would have to have a surge tank? Just double checking that part.

Good luck on getting Perrin to warranty that.

Kirt
378awhp/373wtq Custom Dom 3 & CBRD tuned 2006 STI.
"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#96 Old 04-28-2011, 09:07 PM
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Pretty sure you need a surge with an in-line. Not positive, but that's the main benefit of the setup being the surge tank.

Sounds like Perrin is going to take care of me too... Heard back that they have a few that did the same thing and traced it back to a mfr. error. We'll see what they offer up tomorrow but I'd honestly be happy with just a discounted set of their new "stronger" end links.

-Chris

Last edited by RcrsWetDream; 04-28-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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#97 Old 04-29-2011, 11:31 AM
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Another update: Perrin is sending me a new set of endlinks under warranty since it appears to be a defect

-Chris
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#98 Old 05-24-2011, 12:43 PM
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More parts on the way and these are all going on as soon a I get my tools out here in a couple weeks.....

For Fun:
-Group-N Engine Mounts
-Aeromotive 340lph in-tank fuel pump (it was a toss-up between this and the DW301. The aeromotive flows 20lph more fuel at 40psi and holds about 12lph more than the DW at 67.5psi and is only $5 more so I'm going for it). Plus it's aeromotive so quality isn't an issue.
-Stoptech F&R SS Brake Lines

For 30k service:
-ATE Super Blue
-Redline 75W90 (rear diff)
-Redline 75W90NS (trans)
-Motive Power Bleeder

-Chris
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#99 Old 05-24-2011, 03:44 PM
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Sounds like fun.

Kirt
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"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#100 Old 05-24-2011, 04:30 PM
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Yep.. $550 and the car won't be any faster. At least the fuel pump is getting ready for injectors which is getting ready for corn which will hold me over until I drop in the long block which will then support the big turbo that will blow up the transmission. But hey it'll be fast on paper.

Just a short list of all the crap I need to do in the coming weeks:

Oil Change
Trans Fluid
Rear Diff Fluid
Cabin Air Filter
Brake Lines
Bleed Brakes
Rotate Tires
Engine Mounts
Install Fuel Pump
Replace Rear Endlinks
Re-paint tail lights (faded bad - using an automotive clear coat next time)
*Injectors - Mid July
*E85 Tune - Mid July

Then I start saving for a new clutch.

-Chris

Last edited by RcrsWetDream; 05-25-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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#101 Old 05-29-2011, 11:51 PM
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dont wanna thread jack but i had a few questions since you've done your homework. if i do rebuild the motor i want it as cheap as possible (of course). i think i want wiseco because they have the side skirt coating already. however i keep seeing 8.0:1 or 8.2:1 and our factories are 8.4:1. i really dont want to lose compression and have to make up HP with more boost.

now ive seen 9.0:1. whats the deal with these and why doesnt everyone use them?? if you have rods and bearings and head studs why wouldnt everyone want as much HP as possible? is there something else you need to run these?

also on fred beans parts they have 5 different bearings. i dont want to do any machine work so the over sized i believe are out. but whats with the extra oil clearence ones? again why wouldnt everyone want something thats better then OEM. Chris which ones did you go with again?

and wow Manley rods $782 vs Eagle $367! Eagle worth it or scrap rods all together if staying under 500WHP? say 400-450whp.

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#102 Old 05-30-2011, 01:10 AM
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Unless you're running something like a 35R or FP Red, you really don't need rods.
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#103 Old 05-30-2011, 01:43 AM
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what about a 7500 rpm redline, needed then?

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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#104 Old 05-30-2011, 11:00 AM
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I'm in the group that says if you have the block apart just do rods. The Manley's I went with are their H-beams which are like $350 for the set. I got them at Real Street Performance for $770 with my Wiseco's (which push compression to about 9.17:1 as I got the 9.0cr pistons). The reason people don't use them is because going with a higher CR on a turbo engine is a trade off.... You gain power everywhere, but especially at the low to mid end. On the other side of that, you typically have to run a lower boost and timing on the turbo to avoid det. On the other side of that, run race fuel aka E85 and you can run the same boost/timing with the higher CR. I'm running E85 so I'm planning on running 23-24psi on the Dom3 and I'm close to 9.2:1. Also, those pistons are almost always rated using the STI's combustion chambers which are like 55cc's or something around there. The WRX combustion chambers are around 50cc's so compression bumps up a couple points vs the manufacturer rating.

As for bearings my crank mic'd out good for standard bearings so that's what I got, ACL Race STD size. I'm going to plastigauge them soon to see what the clerances actually are, but I may go up to the extra oil clearance (HX) bearings since I am planning on spinning to 7500 normally, 8k max. Basically the extra oil clearance is good if you're spinning that high, you just need a higher volume oil pump to make sure you can feed the extra oil needs at the bearings. I have that with the P&L Race Application pump. They take an 11mm pump, hone it out to outflow the JDM 12mm pump, and they said they also do the high pressure mod to it as well.

As for all the different sizes and machine work, they will always fit the block/rod (unless there's something really wrong). It's all up to how big the journals on the crank are that determines what size bearings you actually need. They'll never require you to machine the block or rod, just your crank may be a bit worn down so get the smaller bearings, or you want to spin higher to get the bigger bearings, etc.

Depending what my clearances actually come out to I do want some extra clearance on those bearings, I just don't know if I need to get the HX's or not yet. I found STD size bearings, which are tough to find, so I just bought those when I saw them. The HX's are pretty easy to find still so I'm not worried about getting a full set of those if I need to. I can probably sell the STD's in no time if I end up needing HX's.

As for needing rods, it's all about the load they'll see. Personally, anything over a stock turbo I'm just going to do rods to be safe. Anything over 7k or so rev's I'd do rods because the g's on the rods when they come back from TDC is what kills them (basically the crank is pulling the rod back into the center of the block while the piston is the force counteracting that, pretty much trying to rip the rod in half).... Higher RPM's, more g's the rod sees.

-Chris
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#105 Old 05-30-2011, 01:55 PM
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im surprised your pistons are that compression. the wisecos listed at summit racing say the ones with no valve relief are 8.9:1, the ones with valve relief like you have are 8.5:1 but these are for the 99.5mm.

Fred beans put a quote on their page i just saw about "if you do aftermarket rods, extra oil clearence ACL's are recommended."

what do you think for a 7500rpm 400-450whp?
im thinking, ACL's extra oil (HX), eagle rods, wiseco 9.0.1 dome coating, gasket kit, arp head studs, BC springs and retainers, killer b oil pick up and tray, 11mm pump. should be $2000.

Scott-2011 WRX 335HP 394TQ 93 VF52!
http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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