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I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock

73K views 433 replies 17 participants last post by  ericwudi0830 
#1 · (Edited)
The Ricer-mobile Gets Built!

So this had snowballed into an all out engine build. I'm going to maintain this thread as my build, albeit a slow process.

My goal for the car is pretty simple, make me grin uncontrollably every time I push the skinny petal.

I'll keep this first post updated as things change and try to add in an index at a later time.

For now I'll leave you with the overall build list and progress to date. I'm also going to include my costs since a lot of people underestimate the cost of big power on the Subaru platform.

If it has been purchased that's the actual price including tax/shipping/etc.

Purchased:
Block/Crank - $300.00
Machine Work - $272.46
Wiseco Pistons (100mm)/Manley Rods - $769.99
Main and Rod Bearings - ACL Race Std. Size - $138.83
OEM Gasket Kit/Case Bolts - $254.07
P&L High Flow Pump - $319.49
ARP Head Studs - $162.94
Gates Timing Belt/OEM Tensioner/Gates Water Pump/All Cogs/Pulleys - $289.97
Rota Torque 5x100 - 17x8 et48 - $300.00
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Sport Star Specs 235/40/17 - $673.94

These are all budgeted prices below

Next Up:
Dome Coating on Pistons - $125.00
Group N Engine Mounts (need four nuts for plates) - $135.00
Injectors - 1000cc ID's w/pigtails - $427.50
Deatschwerks 300lph Fuel Pump w/install kit - $170.00
Cast Turbo Inlet - Brand TBD - $250.00
KS Tech Big MAF CAI - 73mm - $230.00
Brian Crower Valve Springs/Ti Retainers - $204.25
Supertech Valve Guides and Seals - $114.98
Brian Crower Stage II Cams - $586.00
Killer B Optimal Oil Pan & Ultimate Pickup & Baffle - $689.48
FMIC Brand TBD- $800
Carbonetic Pro-Blade Clutch/Fly ABS23132-16 - $1,349.00
Blouch dom3xt-r (not sure new or used) - $1,200.00-$1,800
Heads - MA Stage III or EQ Stage II Head Job -$950.00

Valves - Not sure on brand or size. Looking at ferrera, supertech. Std or +1mm. Not sure yet.


INDEX:

Main Bearings: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index2.html#post254384
Oil Pump, Rods, Pistons, Rod Bearings: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index2.html#post254902
ARP Head Studs: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index3.html#post256378
Master Gasket Kit: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index3.html#post256884
Teaser of the New Wheels: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257136
New Tires: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257290
Block Back from Machine Shop: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257475
 
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#172 ·
Got back to tuning this afternoon. He got the rich dip figured out, it looks like it was just a latency issue with the injectors. I'm sure that little leak I found dind't help either but he got it sorted out.

I don't have the log to run the Airboy plot yet but it's fast. Going from stock to stage II type difference.

Stay tuned for a dyno plot but I'd say I gained an easy 30-40whp and we're not even done yet, still fine tuning the timing sometime this week.

Still running the same boost as 93 too.
 
#173 ·
Finally met up with the tuner to fine tune the fueling/timing and ran one more log for airboy....

The road was a bit rough towards the end of the pull but it still cranked out some good numbers:

352whp/366wtq on Airboy 81 degrees outside, 58% humidity


The car will now wait to get the hail damage fixed, but at least she has a nice garage to sleep in:

 
#175 ·
^I was hoping for 350. If I wanted to run more boost I know we could have spiked it to 22-23psi and hit close to 400 but I told him to hold back.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention I ordered my valve springs and exhaust valves today. Brian Crower valve springs & Ti retainers, Supertech Inconel exhaust valves. Next up is the cams, going with GSC Stage II 272/272's. After doing A LOT of research I've decided to spend the extra coin on GSC/Kelford level cams vs the BC's. All my research is pointing me to the GSC Stage II's for a Dom 3 sized turbo. I may need to do some work on the heads to get clearance on the lobes (around the bucket seat area) on the intake side but that will just be done by the shop doing the head work.
 
#176 ·
I would still think on corn you'd be able to get a bit more, but I understand about the keeping it under a certain level...Might I recommend Supertech valve springs over the BC ones. Good choice on the cams. I highly recommend Kelford..
 
#179 ·
Oh, I missed that part. Well...its just numbers. They went up which is good of course. I'm still wondering what a real dyno would say vs the airboy plot. Because a bad road or bumpy road could skew the numbers.....know what I mean? Not trying to be a dick.
 
#180 ·
Update:

Got my bore gauge yesterday so I got to work measuring the main clearances.

All pretty close to what I wanted, and definitely all in spec!Thumbs Up

I'm running it pretty loose so I was targeting upwards of .0015" on the mains and they all came back at or just below that at .0013"-.0015". I have a big oil pump to fill those clearances with my P&L Port and Polished 11mm pump which outflows the JDM 12mm. I'll probably have to do some experimenting with oil weights and viscosity's once I get it in to see what oil the engine likes the best.

I'll measure the rods next, but I have a hunch I'll go to HX's on those once I mic em out.

I should be getting my hood this week and I hope to be putting that on on Saturday. After that, time to drive around like a ricer for two and a half weeks till I get into the paint shop.

Livin up to my name!Laugh!
 
#181 ·
Bumping it for your followers again I see. :p

I guess the guage works a lot better than that plastic one you were using doesn't it? lol....just busting balls. Normally Keith's kind of work.
 
#184 ·
Yeah it's definitely better to know to the ten thousandth of an inch what my clearances are. Plastigages were waaaaaay off but they were one of those things that I mine's well try for $1.60 before dropping coin on the bore gauge.. Now I have a bore gauge and I like having tons o' tools.

As for the rods, I'm going to go get a vice to attach to my work bench so I can properly torque those suckers down and mic them out. I don't want to try and use the crappy 2x4 rig I used to get the bolts off in the first place, so I'll probably do the rods on Saturday.

Still no info on when my hood is coming, I guess that's the only downside to ordering through my guy, he just calls me when it's in. At least I got it for seven fiddy shipped.
 
#188 ·
I suppose, as long as I get it on before the 29th I'm good as that's when the car goes in for paint/pdr. Honestly the less time I have to drive around with a bare CF hood the better, I just only had this weekend to do it before the 29th so I'll have to do it some night after work.

For fun I re-measured the mains and got even better #'s (probably because I'm getting better at using the bore gauge and it's actually 68* in here right now).

#1 - .0011"
#2 - .0013"
#3 - .0011"
#4 - .0014
#5 - .0011"

I'm quite happy with those #'s. I'm sure if I measured 4 more times, which I'm bound to do, I'll get to the point where they're all right around .0011-.0012.
 
#193 ·
Just got done measuring out the rod bearings, all in spec with STD size bearings and Manley rods. I was figuring I'd have to buy some HX's for the rods because I've always heard the Manley's run tight, but that isn't the case.

Everything came back as follows:
#1: .0012"
#2: .0014"
#3: .0014"
#4: .0014"

Specs are .0007-.00018" so I'm good to put this thing together whenever I want. All the work I have left is to gap the rings whenever I drop the pistons in.

Some pictures for you all to enjoy (and finally see my ugly mug):

Mains


Crank, rod, mic and bore gauge


Glamor shot


Torquing rod bolts to 62 lb-ft


Torqued


Clean clean clean!


Mic the crank


Measure that hole!
 
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