I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock - Page 3 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#31 Old 01-31-2011, 02:50 PM
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Yeah I know they have Direzza DZ101 and Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec. Getting the Z1's.

Now I just need to figure out if I want 235/40's or 245/40's. They're both within .2" of eachother (24.5 vs 24.7"). Both have a rim width range of 8-9.5" so they should both fit equally as well.

My earlier post made it sound like the wheels already have tires on them, they don't, so I get to pick what size I want to put on them. I'm leaning towards the 245's. I just want to make sure I'm not going to have any rubbing issues as I don't want to roll/pull my fenders.

-Chris
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#32 Old 01-31-2011, 04:44 PM
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09 has bigger fenders than the 02-07. You can fit 245 if the offset is +45 or bigger with zero problem. That said, I'd still recommend 235/40R17 for 17x8. First, the 8" wheel is very narrow for 245/40R17. Yes, it's within spec but barely. Most 40 sidewall tires are rated no more than 20% wider than the wheel. 245 on an 8" is 20.6%. Close enough to be street legal, but that's a lot of flex.

Second, the shorter tire will give better gearing and steering response.

Third, it's likely a pound or two lighter. And cheaper (3b)

Fourth, the width won't add much unless you're tracking the car.

04 STi 16G powered lagless fun
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#33 Old 01-31-2011, 06:44 PM
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I'm with Mosc on the tires thing. I'd do the 235s on the 8 inch wheel. I don't think you'd have a problem clearing the 245's without rubbing, but that gets a little wide, and the 235 would keep a flat sidewall. Even at the track I don't know what gains you'd see with 1 cm wider tires if they're being flexed more diagonally. BoostAddict went the opposite and went crazy narrow with his tires and regretted it. Good to see he went back to "normal" sized tires again.
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#34 Old 02-01-2011, 07:42 AM
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You guys have hit on everything I've been considering. 235's are about $16 less per tire, 2lbs less per corner, and I've always wondered about the flex.

I like having a straight sidewall and definitely don't want my tires to look flat from all the bulge (exaggerated). No, the car won't be seeing track time (yet). I know the 245's will fit, but the $ and # figures don't seem worth it.

-Chris
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#35 Old 02-01-2011, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondafan View Post
BoostAddict went the opposite and went crazy narrow with his tires and regretted it.
I warned him about his moronic tire and offset choices but he thought he knew better. He prioritized weight savings and extreme gearing above correct fit. Then he didn't like the look so spoiled his weight savings and ruined his steering response by throwing on huge spacers. The worst of all worlds

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#36 Old 02-04-2011, 05:15 PM
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I'll start off with a math problem.

IF:

USPS

+



=



AND



+



=



THEN


USPS


=




If you ask me that is unequivocal proof that USPS is as safe for your packages as a dog.



Anyways, got the head studs today. They're shiny and now my pile of engine parts is about 18" tall:






-Chris
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#37 Old 02-08-2011, 03:14 PM
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That box of APR head studs looks very familar. lol

Kirt
378awhp/373wtq Custom Dom 3 & CBRD tuned 2006 STI.
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#38 Old 02-08-2011, 11:05 PM
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All my stuff from USPS arrives in a completely destroyed box. I hate USPS for packages, it's only a matter of time before I lose something before it even gets to me.

-Chris
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#39 Old 02-19-2011, 12:00 PM
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I've been in Calgary for the last two weeks working my ass off.

Time for an update I suppose.

I got the engine gasket kit while I was in Calgary. There certainly are a bunch of parts in this thing, more than I'll ever need but it has literally everything in the engine bay. Pretty much if you need a gasket forward of the donut connection on the downpipe this has it.

Whole Kit:



Best Part, they matched a better price:



Fred Beans is also having a president's day sale, so I scooped up the Gates Racing Complete Timing Kit. These suckers retail for around $450 and they have them on sale for $290 shipped. That is a ridiculous price if you ask me. I was only going to get a timing belt, tensioner, and new water pump, but for about $20 more I got a complete timing kit with all the pulleys/cogs, timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Why not.

That will be in Utah on Tuesday and I'll get it back to Omaha next time I'm home.

Next time I'm home I also get to pick the block up from the machine shop. I'm excited. As of March 5th, 2011, I have a 100% built short block ready for my engine to assplode!

-Chris
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#40 Old 02-24-2011, 10:25 AM
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You're totally going to beat me to a built motor! Too bad you're not staying in Utah otherwise I'd want to see your block go together.

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-Brad
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#41 Old 02-24-2011, 12:23 PM
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Oh you'll beat me to it. The block may be done in a week but it's not going in the car for a couple years. I'm doing the full build all at once and that requires about $7,000 more than I have into it now. Total for the short block build is $2,655.77 which includes:

Block/Crank from junk EJ257
Machine Work
Wiseco Pistons (100mm)/Manley Rods
Main and Rod Bearings - ACL Race Std. Size
OEM Gasket Kit/New Case Bolts
P&L High Flow/High Pressure Oil Pump
ARP Head Studs
Gates Timing Belt/OEM Tensioner/Gates Water Pump/All pulley's/cogs
Dome Coating on Pistons

After I get the short block done I still have:

Group N Engine Mounts
Injectors - 1000cc ID's
Deatschwerks 300lph Fuel Pump
Cast Turbo Inlet
KS Tech Big MAF CAI - 73mm
Brian Crower Valve Springs/Ti Retainers
Supertech Valve Guides and Seals
Brian Crower Stage II Cams
Killer B Optimal Oil Pan & Ultimate Pickup & Baffle
FMIC
Carbonetic Pro-Blade Clutch/Fly Kit
Dom 3.0xt-r
Heads - MA Stage III or EQ Stage II Head Job - PnP, 3 angle valve job, assembly.

Then after all that it's time for PPG ($7k). Then after that it's time to really do the suspension ($3k). Then after that it's time to make the car lighter ($4k).

I have the next 6-7 years of this car pretty booked.

-Chris
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#42 Old 02-24-2011, 02:59 PM
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I would have to honestly have a job where I had too much time on my hands and too much money to do a setup like that. Or at least the bug hasn't gotten to me quite that much yet. Did you just get stock case bolts? I saw the ARP ones when I was looking and it seemed a little high to pay $350+ for case bolts. What did you get your set for? By your list, I assume you got OEM ones?

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-Brad
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#43 Old 02-24-2011, 04:10 PM
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Yeah just oem case bolts. I wanted to replace them since I don't know much of the block history.

If you talk to Joe at the parts counter at Mark Miller Southowne he'll give you 10% off all parts. Just say your on SLCsubaru.com

He is JoeParts on that website and you can just pm him your order if you want.

All 18 or 20 bolts cost about $40, but just the big main bolts (12 I believe) was around $30 from Joe.

-Chris
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#44 Old 02-24-2011, 07:07 PM
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Chris which gear set and all are you going with that is going to cost you $7,000? Is that with diff(s), cltuch, flywheel, axles, driveshaft?

Joshua
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Stage 2 2005 WRX
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#45 Old 02-24-2011, 08:07 PM
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Well I guess I had a lot factored into that cost.... I'll already have my carbonetic clutch/flywheel done. That was $1,350, so maybe in the $5,500-6k range.

Basically it'll be a full 1-4 straight cut synchro PPG set (probably do everything including the forks and syncro's), front diff and rear diff's, stock axles for now, install. No way I'm touching the inside of a transmission.

CF driveshaft is part of the $3k diet that the car will go through, but I'll probably do it with the transmission.

-Chris
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