I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock - Page 28 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#406 Old 10-01-2012, 01:50 PM
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Ordered up the next phase today:

Tactrix Cable - About time I have one for myself
Crawford V2 AOS
Koyo Radiator
KS Tech Air Pump Delete Plates
Import Performance TiAL QR Adapter - Will allow me to run the QR on my TMIC, I'm sick of not having it on the car as I've never had the chance to finish the FMIC, and won't for a while.
New pack of oil filters and plug gaskets
New donut gasket for dp to cb connection, blew mine out on Friday. Car sounds aweeeeeeeeeesome right now.

Sometime in November:
Oil Temp & pressure gauges
SMY Clustermaker Gauge pod
Oil pressure sender relocation kit

Marchish:
Driveshaft shop CF drive shaft

-Chris
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#407 Old 10-06-2012, 05:43 PM
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Got the flange for my TiAL QR last night, and put the new bpv on today.

The thing is huge but it certainly is pretty. I'm fighting a bit of compressor stall when I let off right now, but the instructions say it needs a direct 1/4" minimum line to the intake manifold with no t's... I think I have a 5mm line on there with a t to the boost gauge. I'll start there by running a larger line straight to the valve. If that doesn't solve it then I'll order up a looser spring for it.



Size Comparo to OEM


Also changed the oil and replaced the donut at the downpipe/catback connection. The old one was toast....




Also go the KSTech air pump delete plates and tactrix cable... Don't really need the cable but it's always good to run a log from time to time. The rad was out of stock but should be here by next Wednesday and the AOS is on backorder for a bit... The only thing going on now will be the AOS.

-Chris

Last edited by RcrsWetDream; 10-08-2012 at 08:30 AM.
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#408 Old 10-06-2012, 06:36 PM
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What spring are you currently running in it?

Resident Grumpy Old Man(Keith)
03 SRP 2.34L
08' LGT Gears...
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#409 Old 10-06-2012, 08:13 PM
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10 psi spring, all I could find when I ordered it. That spring is rated for 19 in/mg at idle and the car pulls a solid 21-22 at idle. If I go stiffer on the spring, it'll be at the proper rating for my idle vacuum, but if anything it'll need a lighter spring to ease the stall and let it activate easier.

I took it out for a spin and wot it blows off as it should, but under light load (3-5) psi there's a slight delay where you hear the compressor stall, then it blows off. That delay is why I'm thinking it needs a bigger, dedicated line. I went and bought some 5/16" line so I'll swap that in when I have some time and see if that helps.

One thing I will say is that the valve sounds waaay different than OEM. Much cooler sounding.

-Chris

Last edited by RcrsWetDream; 10-08-2012 at 08:30 AM.
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#410 Old 10-08-2012, 07:53 AM
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So I ran a direct line to the valve from the IM and now it seems worse... I also moved the source for my boost gauge to the line feeding the top of the wastegate and apparently that never sees vacuum which perplexes me.

I'm going to tap the boost gauge back into the line to the bpv and then go from there. I think a softer spring in the bpv is in order.

-Chris
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#411 Old 11-15-2012, 07:27 AM
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Guess I never posted on the outcome. I put the car back to how it originally was, direct line off the manifold with a T to the boost gauge. I blows off nicely at anything above 3 or so PSI, under that it doesn't like to let go.

I spoke with TiAL and they said that's about right for a small turbo, it doesn't push enough air at low boost and the valve doesn't blow it all off. Under light load like that, I'm not worried, if it was doing it at full boost then I'd be worried.

Also got the Koyo radiator and Crawford AOS a few weeks ago. I probably won't bother with the radiator until I need to do the clutch, which is getting sooner and sooner as I drive more, it slips with less boost in 5th gear now. Trying to pass somebody real quick on the high way is getting tough without a downshift . I'm hoping to wait until spring or early next summer though, the wife will be off work and I can use her car as a DD if the car stays down for more than the weekend. I'm getting close to having it paid off though so hopefully it won't be my dd this time next year.

I may put in the AOS this weekend... The wife has a friend coming into town and that sounds like a great excuse to hang out in the garage.

-Chris
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#412 Old 12-07-2012, 02:40 PM
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Got my cherry picker yesterday. My office is closed the entire week of Christmas so I'm taking the second half of that week to do the following:

Clutch (pulling engine)

Probably do the air pump delete while the engine is out and clean up the bay a bit

Spark plugs while it's out (easy peezy when it's just hanging in the air)

Put in the Koyo rad since I need to drain the coolant anyways when pulling engine

Put in KillerB pan, pickup, and baffle - Only if I can run the pan with the standard amount of oil. I'm waiting to hear back from KillerB on this. If I HAVE to run the 6.4 or whatever quarts, I don't want the increased cost of my oil changes for not much gain. If I can just keep it at 4.4 then I'll do it, I don't see why I can't do that.

AOS

It's a lot to do but I should be able to knock it out in about 2-3 days solo if all goes well. My only issue may be trying to wrestle the engine in and out by myself.

-Chris
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#413 Old 12-26-2012, 09:56 PM
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Started the clutch job, I got most of the stuff off the engine on Saturday, then we went home for xmas.

Today I was able to get the engine out, replace the clutch and plugs and start getting ready to put it back together. The only dumb thing i have right now is I took the nuts off the trans mount, and it popped out of the cross member. I tried to hit it back in place with a wood block and dead blow and managed to hit my finger and I'm currently holding back the bleeding. That was a good stopping point

Tomorrow morning I'll loosen up the trans crossmember and see if I can get it back in place and put the nuts on by a few threads to hold it there. Then it's just getting the engine back in and putting all the peripherals back on.

So far I've done it all solo, but I have a buddy coming over tomorrow afternoon and he may end up helping to wrestle the engine back in.

Couple pictures of the process:



Old clutch and fly:






I also decided to say screw the install of the air pump deletes, oil pan/baffle/pickup, and maybe the rad. Don't really benefit me at this point and the air pump delete still had a part buried under the intake manifold that I didn't feel like trying to get at.

-Chris
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#414 Old 12-27-2012, 05:47 AM
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Clutch didn't look bad at all.

Nice doing it by yourself...

Paul
2007 XT
2007 MS3
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#415 Old 12-27-2012, 08:17 AM
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I don't think the pic shows how worn it is very well. You can tell from all the clutch dust I cleaned out of the trans and engine areas though.

Wish me luck getting this thing back in today.

-Chris
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#416 Old 12-27-2012, 10:10 AM
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Update:

Trans back in place, took ten minutes of loosening up the cross member
Finger still bleeding from last night
Engine proving to be a bitch to line back up by yourself. May have to wait for my buddy to come over later but I'll keep trying.

-Chris
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#417 Old 12-27-2012, 10:21 AM
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Lube the guide pins

Paul
2007 XT
2007 MS3
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#418 Old 12-27-2012, 01:07 PM
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Guide pins are all lubed up with anti-seize.

I got it a good 99% of the way in (about a 1" gap), I just need my buddy to push it forward a bit so I can get the bolts started. Once he pushes it forward there's maybe a half in gap, which is pretty standard and then the bolts will take up the rest.

I've only been in the garage for about two hours today so that's not bad progress. Once he gets here I'll bet I can have it connected in about a half hour, test the clutch works (no reason for it not to), and drop it back down into the subframe.

-Chris
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#419 Old 12-27-2012, 07:46 PM
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Turns out I got the engine in on my lonesome... Buddy showed up about 20 minutes after I got it back in and tested the clutch out. It's all bolted up, the engine/trans mounts are seated in the subframe/crossmembers and I just need to finish putting it back together tomorrow morning. Should be back on the road tomprrow evening. So far I have about 11 hours into it, I figure 4-5 more and I'll be done.

-Chris
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#420 Old 12-28-2012, 12:08 PM
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I have everything most of the way back in. I just need to put the down pipe back on, slap on the wastegate, heat shield, tmic, and add coolant. Hopefully I'll have it back running with two more hours of work.

-Chris
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