Well time for updates.....
Sad news today
Ok no not really. Pretty sure my crappy HID's died. I'll check the fuse and relay on the wire harness but I'm just going to slap regular bulbs back in the things. The HID kit is my only regret on the car anyways.
I've also pretty drastically changed plans on the car in the last few weeks. Obviously buying a house has consumed my weekends over the last month, so the clutch is still needing replacing. Hopefully later this summer I'll have some time and my uncle will still be willing to lend a hand and an engine crane. I may still do the oil pan at the same time, whatever we'll figure it out.
On to the change in plans. I've decided, at this time, to NOT upgrade the turbo. Don't fear, it's still on the list down the line. I just can't make up my mind on rotated/oem location/size so for now, screw it. I'll get the engine built, still fully work the heads, and run the stock turbo and see what the thing can do at the 1/4. I'll need to work on my driving but I know the car can do 11's.
Here's the revised build list and reasons:
Tactrix: Because I need one $180ish
Crawford AOS: since going E85 and running north of 20psi I've noticed a bit of blowby in my IC piping and have been burning ~ 1/2qt per 3500 miles. We'll see if an aos solves it or maybe there's an slight issue with the engine, either way there's no other signs of anything being wrong with the car. Regardless I have a built shortblock I can swap in when I do the clutch so NBD
Koyo Rad: Do it with the clutch. I know I was going to do it down the line so just get it out of the way for $350
KSTech tgv and air pump deletes - Because I'm doing these things and it's cheaper to buy the plates than take them to a shop to get welded. $75
PST Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft: New goal to maximize efficiency and minimize weight with the OEM turbo setup. Plus I've wanted a cf drive shaft because EVERYBODY I talk to raves about their lightweight shafts ( !Laugh! ) $1,107 so quite spendy
Oil Temp, Oil Pressure gauges and the clustermaker dash cluster gauge mount - Because I like knowing my oil pressure and temp are in check $350ish
The rest is unchanged: I need the rest of the guts for the heads (intake valves, valve springs, GSC S1 cams, the head work itself, and I'll do the inlet hose while I'm swapping the engine - $2,200 for all that)
So all in I have about $4,600 left on this stage of the build but overall the goal would be an even more fun DD once I get the drive shaft in there, and the car will be down to about 2900 lbs for my race weight. I have more plans for weight savings down the line to include lightweight brakes (possibly a VERY lightweight drag only setup when the car isn't my dd - think almost motorcycle brakes), dry cell battery, full gutting of the thing besides two front seats (aftermarket, probably Kirkey). All that should get me under 2750 dry weight, and we'll see what that combined with 350ish whp and 400tq will do.
The next stage will then be the brakes and other lightweight items, then finally I'll step up the turbo. By that time I'll probably be willing to do some extreme work with the intake/turbo system to include rotated turbo setup, and a rotated IM since the plastic manifold really lends itself to a super short piping system.
We'll see though, this could all change now that we have a house !Laugh!
The plan still sits at once the car is paid off (July 2014) this will all be procured. As of right now I'll have the shaft early next spring for next summer fun. That combined with the clutch and flywheel alone will save about 26 lbs from the drive train itself.