I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock - Page 25 - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #361 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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It's those... Except they put theirs on backwards.

The thinner end is supposed to be facing airflow per aerocatch. You can do them either way though.

-Chris
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post #362 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 12:23 PM
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Makes sense...but, I've seen it done "backwards" on a few EVOs at my tuner's shop. I guess some people prefer it that way. I guess because you push down on the fat part correct?

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post #363 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, they open up from the fat end. Only thing I can think of is if the latch somehow got popped open and you are at track speed, the air could catch the latch and open it.

-Chris
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post #364 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 07:11 PM
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I think those are great ideas, as they are probably a little more aerodynamic and are definetly nicer looking then just straight pins poking up out the hood.

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post #365 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Totally ruin the front end of the car but oh well, they're needed. Maybe I'll throw some di-noc on them so they sort of go with my vents being CF. I would have got the cf version if I bought them new, but for $75 shipped from my buddy I couldn't pass it up.

-Chris
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post #366 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 08:11 PM
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Wow, I would have jumped on that price also Chris. I do agree that CF, of some wort would help blend in better. But I think they look pretty nice on the car.

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post #367 of 423 Old 03-27-2012, 08:54 PM
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I like the look....

Kirt
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post #368 of 423 Old 03-31-2012, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Wrapped the hood pins today.



Also picked up the Killer B Oil pan, baffle, and pickup from the shop I ordered it from.

The date is set for the clutch, April 21st. Hopefully it'll go smooth enough that we have time to do the Killer B stuff as well.








-Chris
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post #369 of 423 Old 03-31-2012, 06:58 PM
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Nice wrap job. It hides the rivets. Man...I wonder how useful the Killer Bee stuff is. That oil pan looks heavy and what. You said you have to add a QT because the oil pan is so big?

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post #370 of 423 Old 03-31-2012, 08:48 PM
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Thats is a beefy looking oil pan. Hope the install goes well and smooth for your Chris. Good luck.

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post #371 of 423 Old 03-31-2012, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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I'd be willing to bet the Killer B pan is lighter than OEM. Aluminum vs steel. The killer b pan weighs 3 lbs 11 oz. We'll see what the oem pan weighs when I pull it off.

Like I said before, not much benefit to it right now. The pickup is a bit of insurance. The pan and baffle are more for the built engine, but I may just put them on while I have the current engine out during the clutch. The pan may have benefits when I take the car to the strip though. More oil capacity (1.3 qts over OEM) = better cooling, it has better baffling than oem so maybe it'll keep oil off the crank during hard acceleration.

-Chris
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post #372 of 423 Old 04-18-2012, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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After three years that stupid gasket around the throttle body hose finally popped off and caused a nice boost leak. I'm surprised I've never had issues with it like other guys have, but I yanked it off and all is well.

Also, the wife ended up getting this weekend off so I canceled the clutch install with my uncle. Tigers game and house hunting instead. It's been over two months since we've had a weekend off together so I'm capitalizing on this one.

Clutch will be done sometime in May now. Not in a huge rush anyways, it holds just fine for dd use.

-Chris
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post #373 of 423 Old 04-18-2012, 04:29 PM
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after your clutch install or during you should remove the spring, retainer and valve thing out of the clutch master cylinder. subi started putting them in there around or before 06 and its a pressure release valve. basically subi thinks its there to give the clutch an easier time engaging to save the tranny. but the older weak gears were the issue and that item wasnt the right fix. with the harder clutch you will get more chatter and harsher engagment. (if i understood what i read correctly)

http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php...tml#quickreply

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http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f121/2011-wrx-build-31226/
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post #374 of 423 Old 04-19-2012, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Noted... I'll give the new clutch a chance to break in to see if I even need to bother. Most guys I know running the ACT HD have no issues with chatter or harsh engagement.

-Chris
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post #375 of 423 Old 05-01-2012, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Well looks like my wideband is either out of whack or has a dead sensor. All I get is a blinking 7.4 after a few minutes of running. It starts up just fine, works for a while, then goes back to blinking 7.4.

The sucky part is all my parts to calibrate it are buried in a storage locker after the move from NE so I have no way of calibrating it. The plug for the bung is also in that box so I can't remove the sensor the plug the bung to avoid burning out the sensor if it's not heating up during the blinking 7.4.

Basically I'm assuming I'll need to order a new wideband sensor because I've already driven about 60 miles with the sensor flashing 7.4. I close on the new house June 1st and plan on emptying out the storage unit then, so I won't be able to get to it until then.

-Chris
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