I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 12-17-2010, 11:34 AM
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Unfortunately Chris it will need tuned twice. One for break in, and then a second time once the engine is broken in. Im sure you have thought about that.

Joshua
"2007 WRX- PPG'd, 20G- Tim Bailey tuned
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#17 Old 12-17-2010, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtothegame View Post
Unfortunately Chris it will need tuned twice. One for break in, and then a second time once the engine is broken in. Im sure you have thought about that.
That's the beauty of a base map; I'll get a remote base map and load it up via tactrix just so it can drive to the tuner and for my short break in periods. Plus, most tuners will give you a base map so you can get to them to use their services I'll also have a new clutch to break in which is different than breaking in a new engine, but once it's fully engaged it doesn't matter much anyways, just don't clutch dump it.

I don't believe in the 1000 miles break in either... I give it a easy time for the the initial start up and first 20-50 miles, change the oil, get a little tougher on it until about 250, change oil again and then time to flog it.

Did it on my WRX when I got it and it burns zero oil.

-Chris
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#18 Old 12-19-2010, 08:51 PM
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The parts start to roll in!

Main bearings came in on Friday:

Suckers are next to impossible to find. Still on the hunt for rod bearings.


Pistons and rods should be coming to Utah on Tuesday so I won't get to see those for a while.

-Chris
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#19 Old 12-19-2010, 09:14 PM
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Thats because pretty much all the engine builders are swallowing them up

BTW: The Dom turbo line doesn't work in number sequences either. The Dom 2.5 is pretty much as powerful as a Dom 1.0, it just spools faster.

Dom 0.5R          360bhp
Dom 1.5XT-R     480 (basically a Dom 2.5xtr for a 2.0 liter engine)
Dom 1.0XT        490
Dom 2.5XT-R     490
Dom 2.0XT        550
Dom 3.0XT-R     550
Dom 4.0XT-R     600
Dom 5.0XT-R     650

XT meaning it has a billet 11 sided compressor
R meaning its a ball bearing turbo and not journal bearing
All BHP are based on optimal performance on the turbo at crank

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"When in doubt...flat out" - Colin McRae
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#20 Old 12-20-2010, 08:48 AM
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Yeah I've always noticed that the dom 2.0 and 1.0 are basically just the journal bearing version of the 2.5 and 3.0 xtr's.

The new ones they make for the LGT layout, the 380xt, 440xt, and 480xt are all named for their appropriate lb/min rating though.

I am leaning towards a front mount setup so I can run any turbo I want.... If I can find a cheap/used 2.5 or 3.0xtr the cash saved on the cheaper turbo combined with what I can probably get out of my perrin TMIC will probably pay for most of a decent FMIC kit, which I would try to find used as well.

I did find my rod bearings last night on ebay... It seems that's the only place you can find them, so I ordered them.

Also, just picked up the P&L High Flow Oil Pump... It's basically an 11mm oil pump, bored and honed to outflow the JDM 12mm pump, and also has a high pressure mod. Pretty much the same as the cossie high volume/high pressure oil pump ($550) for $300.

-Chris

Last edited by RcrsWetDream; 12-20-2010 at 11:04 AM.
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#21 Old 12-20-2010, 10:22 PM
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Sounds like a good deal.

Man, I wish that I did my heads, cams, and springs with shims/buckets. Kind of regretting it now. Because I'd have to pull everything apart again to do it. My tuner says that the one bolt...damn, i forget now. Its on the heads....like a cam nut or something. Its a bolt or nut that has a plastic sleeve around it or something. Its the biggest pain in the ass about removing the heads and they normally have to waste sockets trying to pound them onto it and it pretty much ruins the socket. Because there is no easy way to get it off. Maybe wagonracer knows what I'm talking about.

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#22 Old 12-20-2010, 10:59 PM
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Probably the cam bolt, especially on avcs cams.... Those like to strip and you have to drill them out.

-Chris
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#23 Old 01-03-2011, 09:36 AM
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More pictures coming tonight... Got lots o' goodies to show ya.

-Chris
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#24 Old 01-03-2011, 02:47 PM
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Can't wait...and its the cam sprocket bolt. Wagonracer explained how to get it off with his tricks in his post in this section on engine pull 101.

Kirt
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#25 Old 01-03-2011, 05:47 PM
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I guess it's nothing too exciting but I was able to snap a few pictures of the new pistons, rods, oil pump, and my finally sourced std. size rod bearings.

P&L High Flow/High Pressure Oil Pump:
Shot of the CNC'd oil passages/galleys/whatever ya call em:





Whole thing:



Wiseco 100mm 8.9:1 CR 2618 Pistons:









Manley H-Beam Con Rods:

Nicely noted big and small end weights to the tenth on box from the factory:





ACL Race Rod Bearings (52mm journal, STD size to be verified via plastigauge). Crank already came back good for all std bearings, but I'm going to double check my clearances.



That's about it for now. Block goes to the machine shop Saturday the 15th to get bored and honed for the pistons. After that, pistons go to Swain Tech to get their TBC coating on the domes, and I will order the master engine gasket kit and ARP Head Studs. Should be a an eventful two weeks.

-Chris
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#26 Old 01-03-2011, 06:08 PM
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Can't wait to see the evolution of the project, looks good so far.

Arthur - 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX
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#27 Old 01-25-2011, 02:43 PM
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Update, kind of.

Finally have a chance to drop the block off on Saturday with Dave at my machine shop, Pro Machine. He's closed on weekends so he's bending over backwards for me to drop it off Sat. AM after his grandson's soccer game. Many props to him for that.

I won't be able to pick it up until I'm in town next in late February, assuming he's in town to meet up and give it back on his day off.

I'll also be ordering my master gasket set and ARP head bolts this week or next, and then sending the pistons to Swain Tech once I get them back. Swain Tech will be putting their TBC coating on the piston domes. More heat in the cylinder and out the exhaust the better!

After the dome coating, I'm picking up my new wheels and tires in time for spring. The new wheels are taking a bit out of the engine build monies, but they'll save me some cash in the long run not having to switch tires on the same set of wheels twice a year.

Got a sweet deal on them, Rota Torque in Steel Gray/Gunmetal (not sure lol), 17x8 et48, wrapped in Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec's 235/40/17. They also come with a set of spline drive lug nuts all for a whopping $200.

Gotta love your Uncle's friend that used to have an 04 STI, sold it, but kept the wheels, and now wants to get rid of them for next to nothing.

After wheels and tires it's KillerB time

-Chris
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#28 Old 01-30-2011, 02:19 PM
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Block is now at the shop. I won't be back in town until the end of Feb. so it'll be a while until I can send the pistons out to SwainTech. I also told him to double check the deck, and to go ahead and deck it if necessary. His first impression is that it's fine but I'd rather be safe than sorry. All in all, my machine shop bill will be $255 for a bore and hone, crank polish, hot tank/degreasing. If he has to deck the block it'll be about $80 more. Not bad IMO.

Also ordered my ARP head studs (Ebay, $162 shipped) and master gasket kit (Fred Beans, $214 shipped). Pretty much I'll have a 100% ready to go short block in a month. Now I'm not worried about my engine popping, it's a nice insurance policy.

-Chris
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#29 Old 01-31-2011, 12:38 PM
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+1 on the Direzza Sport Z1's. Best tires I've bought so far. When my summer tires wear out on this car I'll be buying them again. Had them on my WRX and loved them.
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#30 Old 01-31-2011, 01:42 PM
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Star specs are great, but make sure that's what you get. Dunlop makes some very similar sounding tires.

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04 WRX: SOLD
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