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I have a problem... Bought a used STi Shortblock

73K views 433 replies 17 participants last post by  ericwudi0830 
#1 · (Edited)
The Ricer-mobile Gets Built!

So this had snowballed into an all out engine build. I'm going to maintain this thread as my build, albeit a slow process.

My goal for the car is pretty simple, make me grin uncontrollably every time I push the skinny petal.

I'll keep this first post updated as things change and try to add in an index at a later time.

For now I'll leave you with the overall build list and progress to date. I'm also going to include my costs since a lot of people underestimate the cost of big power on the Subaru platform.

If it has been purchased that's the actual price including tax/shipping/etc.

Purchased:
Block/Crank - $300.00
Machine Work - $272.46
Wiseco Pistons (100mm)/Manley Rods - $769.99
Main and Rod Bearings - ACL Race Std. Size - $138.83
OEM Gasket Kit/Case Bolts - $254.07
P&L High Flow Pump - $319.49
ARP Head Studs - $162.94
Gates Timing Belt/OEM Tensioner/Gates Water Pump/All Cogs/Pulleys - $289.97
Rota Torque 5x100 - 17x8 et48 - $300.00
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Sport Star Specs 235/40/17 - $673.94

These are all budgeted prices below

Next Up:
Dome Coating on Pistons - $125.00
Group N Engine Mounts (need four nuts for plates) - $135.00
Injectors - 1000cc ID's w/pigtails - $427.50
Deatschwerks 300lph Fuel Pump w/install kit - $170.00
Cast Turbo Inlet - Brand TBD - $250.00
KS Tech Big MAF CAI - 73mm - $230.00
Brian Crower Valve Springs/Ti Retainers - $204.25
Supertech Valve Guides and Seals - $114.98
Brian Crower Stage II Cams - $586.00
Killer B Optimal Oil Pan & Ultimate Pickup & Baffle - $689.48
FMIC Brand TBD- $800
Carbonetic Pro-Blade Clutch/Fly ABS23132-16 - $1,349.00
Blouch dom3xt-r (not sure new or used) - $1,200.00-$1,800
Heads - MA Stage III or EQ Stage II Head Job -$950.00

Valves - Not sure on brand or size. Looking at ferrera, supertech. Std or +1mm. Not sure yet.


INDEX:

Main Bearings: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index2.html#post254384
Oil Pump, Rods, Pistons, Rod Bearings: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index2.html#post254902
ARP Head Studs: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index3.html#post256378
Master Gasket Kit: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index3.html#post256884
Teaser of the New Wheels: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257136
New Tires: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257290
Block Back from Machine Shop: http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f10...d-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257475
 
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#383 ·
Well time for the bi-monthly update.

Still holding my plans. I want to get the car paid off, get the wife something new, then the fun really begins with my car.

I've been pricing out wilwood drag brake kits. These are for when the car only sees drag use and casual weekend driving. They're basically motorcycle brakes for all four corners. It'll run about $1,400 for all four, and shave around 100 lbs off the car. Well worth it IMO, especially since most of that is rotating. I'm also looking at the lightest wheels possible. So far SSR 15's, if I get them custom made to 8.5" width, will be around 11.5 lbs each. Add on drag brakes and the rotating mass (minus hub) should be around 45 lbs per corner. OEM is around 70.

I've also had good luck with my buddy/supplier back in Utah so the following will be next on the list for late August/September:
Tactrix - $180
Koyo Rad - $360
Crawford AOS - $360
KSTech Deletes - $75 or less, waiting on that price back

Early 2013:
Driveshaft Shop CF Drive shaft - $1,000

Over the last several months I've set the goal of getting the car to the weight of a Miata and seeing how close to 10's I can get on a VF turbo. Hell, maybe it'll actually get there. Between some extra power, the absolute minimum rotating mass, and 600-700 lbs of weight reduction, I have a shot at some good times.

It's going to take some serious gutting, and it'll cost a lot of money, but why not.
 
#385 ·
I like the design of the Crawford over the other ones.

The rotors will basically be the same size as the ones you see on a crotch rocket. 11.75" and about 3/8-1/2" thick, aluminum hats. Rotors and hats will weigh 10 lbs at the most. They will do squat for any sustained braking, however. That's why once those go on the car will be pretty much a dedicated drag car where I can do one run, use the brakes, and let them cool for a while.

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/BrakeKits/BrakeKit_Photos-Large/brake_kit_140-8442-D-lg.jpg
 
#406 ·
Ordered up the next phase today:

Tactrix Cable - About time I have one for myself
Crawford V2 AOS
Koyo Radiator
KS Tech Air Pump Delete Plates
Import Performance TiAL QR Adapter - Will allow me to run the QR on my TMIC, I'm sick of not having it on the car as I've never had the chance to finish the FMIC, and won't for a while.
New pack of oil filters and plug gaskets
New donut gasket for dp to cb connection, blew mine out on Friday. Car sounds aweeeeeeeeeesome right now.

Sometime in November:
Oil Temp & pressure gauges
SMY Clustermaker Gauge pod
Oil pressure sender relocation kit

Marchish:
Driveshaft shop CF drive shaft
 
#407 · (Edited)
Got the flange for my TiAL QR last night, and put the new bpv on today.

The thing is huge but it certainly is pretty. I'm fighting a bit of compressor stall when I let off right now, but the instructions say it needs a direct 1/4" minimum line to the intake manifold with no t's... I think I have a 5mm line on there with a t to the boost gauge. I'll start there by running a larger line straight to the valve. If that doesn't solve it then I'll order up a looser spring for it.



Size Comparo to OEM


Also changed the oil and replaced the donut at the downpipe/catback connection. The old one was toast....




Also go the KSTech air pump delete plates and tactrix cable... Don't really need the cable but it's always good to run a log from time to time. The rad was out of stock but should be here by next Wednesday and the AOS is on backorder for a bit... The only thing going on now will be the AOS.
 
#409 · (Edited)
10 psi spring, all I could find when I ordered it. That spring is rated for 19 in/mg at idle and the car pulls a solid 21-22 at idle. If I go stiffer on the spring, it'll be at the proper rating for my idle vacuum, but if anything it'll need a lighter spring to ease the stall and let it activate easier.

I took it out for a spin and wot it blows off as it should, but under light load (3-5) psi there's a slight delay where you hear the compressor stall, then it blows off. That delay is why I'm thinking it needs a bigger, dedicated line. I went and bought some 5/16" line so I'll swap that in when I have some time and see if that helps.

One thing I will say is that the valve sounds waaay different than OEM. Much cooler sounding.
 
#410 ·
So I ran a direct line to the valve from the IM and now it seems worse... I also moved the source for my boost gauge to the line feeding the top of the wastegate and apparently that never sees vacuum which perplexes me.

I'm going to tap the boost gauge back into the line to the bpv and then go from there. I think a softer spring in the bpv is in order.
 
#411 ·
Guess I never posted on the outcome. I put the car back to how it originally was, direct line off the manifold with a T to the boost gauge. I blows off nicely at anything above 3 or so PSI, under that it doesn't like to let go.

I spoke with TiAL and they said that's about right for a small turbo, it doesn't push enough air at low boost and the valve doesn't blow it all off. Under light load like that, I'm not worried, if it was doing it at full boost then I'd be worried.

Also got the Koyo radiator and Crawford AOS a few weeks ago. I probably won't bother with the radiator until I need to do the clutch, which is getting sooner and sooner as I drive more, it slips with less boost in 5th gear now. Trying to pass somebody real quick on the high way is getting tough without a downshift :D. I'm hoping to wait until spring or early next summer though, the wife will be off work and I can use her car as a DD if the car stays down for more than the weekend. I'm getting close to having it paid off though so hopefully it won't be my dd this time next year.

I may put in the AOS this weekend... The wife has a friend coming into town and that sounds like a great excuse to hang out in the garage.
 
#412 ·
Got my cherry picker yesterday. My office is closed the entire week of Christmas so I'm taking the second half of that week to do the following:

Clutch (pulling engine)

Probably do the air pump delete while the engine is out and clean up the bay a bit

Spark plugs while it's out (easy peezy when it's just hanging in the air)

Put in the Koyo rad since I need to drain the coolant anyways when pulling engine

Put in KillerB pan, pickup, and baffle - Only if I can run the pan with the standard amount of oil. I'm waiting to hear back from KillerB on this. If I HAVE to run the 6.4 or whatever quarts, I don't want the increased cost of my oil changes for not much gain. If I can just keep it at 4.4 then I'll do it, I don't see why I can't do that.

AOS

It's a lot to do but I should be able to knock it out in about 2-3 days solo if all goes well. My only issue may be trying to wrestle the engine in and out by myself.
 
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