The Ricer-mobile Gets Built!
So this had snowballed into an all out engine build. I'm going to maintain this thread as my build, albeit a slow process.
My goal for the car is pretty simple, make me grin uncontrollably every time I push the skinny petal.
I'll keep this first post updated as things change and try to add in an index at a later time.
For now I'll leave you with the overall build list and progress to date. I'm also going to include my costs since a lot of people underestimate the cost of big power on the Subaru platform.
If it has been purchased that's the actual price including tax/shipping/etc.
Block/Crank - $300.00
Machine Work - $272.46
Wiseco Pistons (100mm)/Manley Rods - $769.99
Main and Rod Bearings - ACL Race Std. Size - $138.83
OEM Gasket Kit/Case Bolts - $254.07
P&L High Flow Pump - $319.49
ARP Head Studs - $162.94
Gates Timing Belt/OEM Tensioner/Gates Water Pump/All Cogs/Pulleys - $289.97
Rota Torque 5x100 - 17x8 et48 - $300.00
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Sport Star Specs 235/40/17 - $673.94
These are all budgeted prices below
Dome Coating on Pistons - $125.00
Group N Engine Mounts (need four nuts for plates) - $135.00
Injectors - 1000cc ID's w/pigtails - $427.50
Deatschwerks 300lph Fuel Pump w/install kit - $170.00
Cast Turbo Inlet - Brand TBD - $250.00
KS Tech Big MAF CAI - 73mm - $230.00
Brian Crower Valve Springs/Ti Retainers - $204.25
Supertech Valve Guides and Seals - $114.98
Brian Crower Stage II Cams - $586.00
Killer B Optimal Oil Pan & Ultimate Pickup & Baffle - $689.48
FMIC Brand TBD- $800
Carbonetic Pro-Blade Clutch/Fly ABS23132-16 - $1,349.00
Blouch dom3xt-r (not sure new or used) - $1,200.00-$1,800
Heads - MA Stage III or EQ Stage II Head Job -$950.00
Valves - Not sure on brand or size. Looking at ferrera, supertech. Std or +1mm. Not sure yet.
Main Bearings: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index2.html#post254384[/url]
Oil Pump, Rods, Pistons, Rod Bearings: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index2.html#post254902[/url]
ARP Head Studs: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index3.html#post256378[/url]
Master Gasket Kit: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index3.html#post256884[/url]
Teaser of the New Wheels: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257136[/url]
New Tires: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257290[/url]
Block Back from Machine Shop: [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/i-have-problem-bought-used-sti-shortblock-29055/index4.html#post257475[/url]
Nice...you didn't want my old block? lol
Sounds like an awesome project, I'm very jealous. I had so much fun dong my build on the old WRX
I have an extra set of new in box ARP head studs if needed. you can PM me if needed. They'll work with any EJ engine is what I've been told.
[quote=turmic;247176]Nice...you didn't want my old block? lol[/quote]
Lol. This one practically fell in my lap. The guy only lives 2 hours away and it's dirt cheap. I can probably make some cash money on the rods and maybe three pistons. So if I can even get 75 back on those I paid 300 for an sti case and crank. Not bad IMO.
I'd like the arp studs (11mm I assume?) but I'm still gonna wait till I save enough cash to do the whole thing at once. I'll let you know though, if you still have them I'll let you know before I pick up a new set from a retailer. I'm all about saving money.
My main reason for buying the spare block was to be able to take my sweet time and build it slowly while still having my car as a dd. Hopefully when time comes to swap it in I either have a company truck (work for a contractor- depends on the job I'm on) or can take a weekend to swap it in real quick (yeah right). I'll probably put new injectors, pump, turbo inlet, tgv deletes, and phenolic spacers in the new block, maybe a crank pulley while I'm at it.
If I add in all the extra's I'm looking at about 3 grand of work on top of the cost of the block. I'll keep the stock turbo for a while until I decide what route to take next. Either take the chance with the stock trans and do a beefy turbo, or build the trans and then hit the turbo. Regardless it'll be a while until I save up enough to do everything, probably around ten grand when all is said and done.
Oh man that sounds like fun. That's my dream build, driving the subie everyday and doing a build on the shop table at my leisure, I'm very jealous.
Picked it up last night. Still has the factory crosshatching in it!Thumbs Up
I'll get some pictures of it tonight, but I'm gonna completely tear it down after work and give it a good look over. Sometime soon I'll get it to the machine shop for a full magnaflux and possible bore/journal rehone, it doesn't look like it will need anything more than that, if it even needs that.
Well mine's well turn this into my build page...
To update the previous post, the block has been taken to the machine shop back in October, crank came back all STD sizes, block came back and needs a bore to 100mm. Three of the four cylinders are mint, one was .02 out of round because of some scuffing related to a blown ring land.... Yep, wasn't a head issue like the guy said, two of the remaining three pistons in the block had blown ring lands.
Oh well, 100mm isn't too big of a deal.
I ordered my pistons/wristpins, and rods last week and they shipped last night.
I went with the Wiseco 100mm 8.9:1 pistons, which will turn out more like 9.17:1 in my build. Also got the Manley H-beam Rods w/arp rold bolts.
I was also able to find some ACL Race main bearings in STD size so I scooped those up. Unfortunately they wouldn't price match the site so I had to spend about $16 more on them than I needed to. Oh well.
Next on the list is dropping the block off at my machine shop back in Utah next time I'm in town to get it bored and honed to fit the pistons, and then have the pistons and rods weight balanced. Total machine shop labor is going to be in the $250-300 range.
That's retarded, why lie to you at that point, I hate people sometimes. What if you had thrown a piston in that hole and closed it up? What a jerk...
Anyway, put up pics of the project!
[quote=Chase;254290]That's retarded, why lie to you at that point, I hate people sometimes. What if you had thrown a piston in that hole and closed it up? What a jerk...
Exactly, he even had in the ad back in July that "you can just put a new oem piston in it and it's good to go!" Doesn't matter in my case but if somebody had bought it to replace their short block and didn't inspect it they would have been SOL. I did get it from a dealership in Idaho too so that makes it even more scary. It would have been nice to keep the stock bore though. I'm not 100% thrilled about going to 100mm but it's not the worst thing in the world either.
Anyways, the block/crank are still in Utah and I've recently moved to Omaha so unfortunately I can't take any pictures of the goodies yet. My preferred machine shop is in Utah (guy does a ton of Subaru work) along with my wife, so I was able to keep it there until I can get the cylinders bored and honed. I'm also shipping everything there for now until my wife moves out to Omaha. I'll be back in town in a couple weeks so I'll try to get some pictures then.
I also ordered some ACL Race Std. Main Bearings today.... RallySportDirect had them in stock.... Now they're out of stock!Thumbs Up At least those will be shipped to Omaha since I don't need them at the machine shop.
I'm also going to send the pistons to SwainTech to get their TBC coating on the domes. For about $100 why not; keep the heat off the piston and going through the turbo.
I think that's about it for right now but to recap:
Pistons/rods ordered, going to try to get the block to my machine shop before the new year so I can pick it up on my next trip home in Mid-January. If that works out I'll be able to ship the pistons to SwainTech while I have them and get the domes coated.
ACL main's are on the way, still no luck finding any 52mm rod bearings though.
The next items to order would be the master engine gasket set and the cossie high pressure blueprinted oil pump. Those should be ordered by the end of January.
BTW Chase do you still have those ARP head studs??? I may be interested in them if you can beat the price my "hook up" can give me.
For fun, the updated build list as well as my revised goals for the car:
Goal: Hit and hold 400whp/tq for a few thousand RPM's. That'll probably put me in the 450whp range, and I'm going to shoot for a 7500-8000 rpm red line.
Bearings - ACL Race
OEM Gasket Kit/Assembly Lube/Case Bolts
Wiseco Pistons/Manley Rods
Swain Tech TBC On Piston Domes
Cosworth High Pressure Oil Pump
Killer B Optimal Oil Pan & Ultimate Pickup & Baffle
Group N Engine Mounts
Carbonetics Single Clutch/Fly
Gates Timing Belt/OEM Tensioner/Gates Water Pump
Supertech Dual Coil Springs/Ti Retainers
Injectors - 1000cc ID's
Turbo Inlet- TBD
KS Tech Big MAF CAI - 73mm
ARP Head Studs
Brian Crower Stage II Cams - $680.00
Heads - Clean, PnP, 3-angle valve job
SwainTech TBC Coating on Combustion Chambers, Valve Faces
Turbo - Blouch 480xt 10cm^2 Hotside (I want to go slightly larger, but that's about all I have to choose from while keeping the TMIC layout of the 08+ WRX)
Deatschwerks 300 lph fuel pump
Are you getting new valves? It sounds/looks like you're get head work, new springs w/ retainers, and new cams. But are you getting new valves? Btw, are BCs cams AVCS capatiable? I'd think so....but sometimes I double check those details.
Second question: Which Blouch turbo are you using? The Dom 4.0 XTR? Because that's the only thing I'm finding close to your description. If yes, I'd say that the Dom 4.0 is definatly a turbo that you should run a FMIC for. Hell, the notes says you need TGV delete and EWG to run that turbo.
[quote=turmic;254308]Are you getting new valves? It sounds/looks like you're get head work, new springs w/ retainers, and new cams. But are you getting new valves? Btw, are BCs cams AVCS capatiable? I'd think so....but sometimes I double check those details.
Second question: Which Blouch turbo are you using? The Dom 4.0 XTR? Because that's the only thing I'm finding close to your description. If yes, I'd say that the Dom 4.0 is definatly a turbo that you should run a FMIC for. Hell, the notes says you need TGV delete and EWG to run that turbo.[/quote]
The valves I'm going to play by ear once I pull my heads off. I'm doing everything else: port and polish, tbc combustion chamber coating, dual coil springs, ti retainers, supertech guides and seals, bc cams (yes they're avcs, just have to remove the set screws). Valves I'd rather reuse but if they look not so hot I'll get some standard size valves. Everything else I'm replacing because of performance gains (springs, cams, pnp), or because it's just good practice (guides, seals). Valves on the other hand, if they're still in good shape, I don't see any performance reason to replace them with something that's essentially an exact copy.
As for the turbo it's this one right now, I left the 8 out in my earlier post:
[url=http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-GT-480XT-Turbocharger-_p_115.html]Subaru Legacy GT 480XT Turbocharger[/url]
I'd rather go with something in the Dom3-xtr range but right now the 480 is as big as it gets for keeping the stock tmic layout. Granted it may be the biggest turbo while still making the TMIC effective. Time will tell, I can't find anybody that has used this turbo yet, but it's only 10 lb/min larger than the new 20g-xt and plenty of guys run those with a TMIC.
I also already have an EWG (TiAL MVS, Grimmspeed v-band ewg up pipe), and will be doing the TGV's myself so they're not on the list.
What are the CFM's on each turbo ?
Just saying because those are large turbo's with a TMIC....
Well a rough estimate would be around 675-700 cfm. That said, if the tmic holds me back I'm just going to go FMIC. If I do decide that, I'd rather do it sooner rather than later so I can save a few bucks on my turbo and get a standard non-lgt layout setup. Or splurge and get a Dom3xtr.
You should really look into a FMIC like you said.... get the tune out of the way. If not, yur paying for 2 tunes. Unless you are doing the tuning yourself ??
I'm doing everything at once. Basically I'm going to pull the engine, swap the short block and rebuild the heads, put the turbo on, do all the supporting mods and then get it tuned, where I am right now it'll be Jorge at P&L. Either way I'm a few years out from being complete in my procurement.
Right now, if the 480 is my only turbo option, I'm going to stay TMIC and see what happens. If through more research that turbo doesn't seem to make the power I want (need to wait for people to start using it), I'll up my turbo to something like a 2.5xtr or 3.0xtr and try to find a decent used FMIC kit and sell my Perrin TMIC.
Either way, it'll only be tuned once on E85 as it won't be my daily anymore.
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