Here we go again...questions, comments, concerns? - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 10-31-2009, 03:54 PM
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Josh.
Well, the rods are an option. depending on what you do power wise I might not do them. The STI rods are decently strong.. However if you want some serious power I would do them. Just keep in mind that eventually you will get tired or used to the power of the car and want more so if you have it apart and can afford the cost do everything do everything. Then it's done and you know everything is as strong and it can be which will lead to longer life and more fun..

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#17 Old 10-31-2009, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL Shoaf View Post
Josh.
Well, the rods are an option. depending on what you do power wise I might not do them. The STI rods are decently strong.. However if you want some serious power I would do them. Just keep in mind that eventually you will get tired or used to the power of the car and want more so if you have it apart and can afford the cost do everything do everything. Then it's done and you know everything is as strong and it can be which will lead to longer life and more fun..
Ken, thanks for the reply. I will find away to afford it when the time comes. Im really hoping that the 20G will hold me over. I switch to low maps once and awhile for a week or so, so when I go back to the higher maps it seems "new" again. And thanks again for the help form you and everyone else that has experience with this stuff.

Joshua
"2007 WRX- PPG'd, 20G- Tim Bailey tuned
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#18 Old 10-31-2009, 09:56 PM
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Believe me when I say...that my tuner didn't forget to quote a full gasket set on the estimate. LOL. Hmm...I guess i'm doing a fully built bottom end then. Thats why I was asking about it. It made sense to me. Well, also that mark did it on his. Shoaf...did ron cross drill your crank? Mark had that done also. He said something about it lets the oil flow better at higher rpms. Not sure....
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#19 Old 10-31-2009, 10:03 PM
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Kirt did you get a written quote, or just an verbal estimate? I ask because with all I have been doing and researched and have done, they have seemed to be 2 TOTALLY different things. Whats the ballpark figure for this if you dont mind me asking? This will be my next investment after securing the drivetrain of my crappy WRX, lol.

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Cobbtuning.com"
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#20 Old 10-31-2009, 10:38 PM
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Well, I was shown henry's estimate and it was about $5600ish. Because of the new 257 block. Which I'm probably going to need. I don't think ron will touch my miles....without re-sleeving it. From what I know... So far, you get resource the parts. Pistons, rods, bearings, and apr studs aren't included in what ron charges for. He just charges you for the block and the upgrading of the block. I haven't look up these parts enough to find what a decent price is for them. To get a good idea of what each individual part and it's price would be.

Question about bearings. I see that cosworth has two bearing sets. A set labeled Main and a set labeled rod. I'm guessing i'll need both?

I'm still trying to research the carrillo rods some more. Btw, CP basically owns carrillo now.

Last edited by turmic; 11-03-2009 at 10:13 PM.
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#21 Old 10-31-2009, 10:59 PM
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I was figuring roughly around the $7k for an engine build. Guess it depends on what exact parts, and who does the work. But honestly for a car I plan to keep for some time, and piece of mind, it will be worth it to me.

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#22 Old 11-01-2009, 11:11 PM
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Yeah, I don't plan on getting rid of the STI anytime soon. I can't afford a Skyline and I can't drive a Vette year round. lol. That estimate was based off just pistons. So, If I add rods and bearings. I'm assuming I just have to had that to the price. Which neither are ungodly expensive so far.

Last edited by turmic; 11-03-2009 at 10:13 PM.
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#23 Old 11-02-2009, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turmic View Post
Question about barrings. I see that cosworth has two barring sets. A set labeled Main and a set labeled rod. I'm guessing i'll need both?
Yeah you'll want to get both. Rod bearings go between the rod and the crank, so they fit into the area of the rod that clamps over the crank. Main bearings go between the crank and the block.

-Chris
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#24 Old 11-02-2009, 10:06 AM
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well my new motor ran me just over $10,000 re using my old EJ207 block...but that also includes built heads with full Brian Crower components, custom Arias Pistons, custom Carillo Rods, a new EJ257 Crank with top secret oil drilling that my engine builder (Georgie Performance in Puerto Rico) won't let me discuss, Cosworth main and rod bearings, Cosworth Oil Pump, ARP Block Bolts and Head Studs...pretty much we turned the EJ207 into a 2.2L stroker motor

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#25 Old 11-02-2009, 10:50 AM
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Damn Matt...That way more than what I want. Haha...but of course you're going to be pushing that engine pretty hard. So, nice build. . Is it recommended to get a oil pump too?

rcrswetdream: Thanks man, nice discription.

Thanks for JSC Speed's description. I think I know which Carrillo rod I want. The Super-A. The H is too high end and I'd rather not have to worry about the A's toughness.

So, If I add the estimate cost then add the bearings and rods.

5,600
    98 (main bearings)
    77 (rod bearings)
+ 877(rods, which i'm guessing is the price for all 4)
6652 (rough final cost)

Basically 7 grand josh. So, you're about right

Last edited by turmic; 11-03-2009 at 10:12 PM.
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#26 Old 11-02-2009, 02:52 PM
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I'm figuring about 15-17k for a full motor build w/turbo and tranny to support 450-500 horse. Honestly if you're going to tear into it, I would do your heads too. Put some good cams in it with better valves and springs/retainers and a PnP and you won't be disappointed. You'd probably be lookin at 1200 more if you can do the work yourself with BC components (minus the PnP). At the same time if you don't plan on making a lot of power aka 375/400+ then head work isn't very necessary, but helpful.

Oh and not to be the grammar police but it's bearings not barrings

-Chris
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#27 Old 11-03-2009, 10:12 PM
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Haha, Thanks. My engrish stinks at times...but, I do try to make sure I correct it. I'm thinking that I'm going to keep it below 400 pretty much. So, I don't think head work is necessary. But, I'm sure it would help. Btw, I spelt english wrong on purpose.
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#28 Old 11-04-2009, 09:32 AM
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Right on, if you do cams other than a very mild lift and duration you'll have to do it. If you don't touch your cams then you should be ok. Down the line I would think about it though.

-Chris
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#29 Old 11-04-2009, 02:23 PM
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If you can try to do that aswell. I know that's my advise to everything.. LOL. But seriously, with a nice midrange cam and P&P you can really pull the power down low. Even with 350 to 400whp (which is a plenty) head work can really wake things up in the mid range.. However if the funding is not there For everything do the heads last.. You know what I mean..

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#30 Old 01-24-2010, 10:36 PM
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Just updating. I'm pretty positive that I'm just going to get a Stage 3 RAW Performance block with the CPs, that have the skirt coating.

Some nuggets of wisedom from Ron.

The stage 3 engine uses ACL bearings that are basically Cosworth Spec 0 bearings. Which are the same as Cosworth Race bearings. Just they are thicker, that way Ron and his machinist can match it to the crank as close as possible.

Ron has said the Mahle pistons normally fail with in a year with 500 wheel hp or more. From what he has seen. Just getting a little gun shy on pistons that fail that quickly. The CPs run well even at 700+ crank hp for ron. He said he has a few engines out there running at that power level. Plus, Ron has been told by CP that he can easily run 250 hp per cylinder on the CP pistons.

Ron uses Pauter 4340 Chrome-Moly Forged Rods. Which are pretty darn strong. So, I expect to be pretty darn happy with it. Just need to save a little bit more and this will soon be a reality.

Kirt
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Last edited by turmic; 01-26-2010 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Had to correct some figures from Ron. Got a confirmation e-mail back from him.
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