head bolt torque specs and pattern??

[sekretskwirl]

...did a search and nada for some reason..anyone have this handy as we are doing the install as we speak, thanks Danielle ....time is 4:20 PST ON SATURDAY

[Vew]

I assume you mean the cylinder head assembly? If that's the case, this is exactly what the repair manual wants you to do.

1. Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads
2. Tighten all bolts to 29N*m (22ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
Then tighten all bolts to 69N*m (51ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
3. Back off all bolts by 180deg first; back them off by 180deg again.
4. Tighten the bolts (A) and (B) to 34 N*m (25ft-lb).

Edit: Hell, I'll just upload the page.

[skate enjoi]

thats the exact same thing i used

[sekretskwirl]

never seated fully-now it's stuck in the block. It bottomed out w/3/8" to go 'till it was fully seated-definitely a factory screw up. The block is goin' back to the dealer asapl by the way they are ARP studs, thanks Danielle

[9d2TSi]

I'm curious as to if something's in the hole that's keeping it from seating...

I'd try to get it out and blow the hole out with some compressed air.

[Vew]

Originally Posted by 9d2TSi

I'm curious as to if something's in the hole that's keeping it from seating...

I'd try to get it out and blow the hole out with some compressed air.

If she can get it out of the block seeing it's stuck

[imbeterthanu]

oil likes to do that. thats why u want to put a thin coat of oil on the bolts and not just stick it in a bottle of oil.

[9d2TSi]

Well, you should be able to get it out, just jam nut it. I wouldn't use an allen, you don't want to break it off.

[sekretskwirl]

yes it was a 'thin coat' of the supplied ARP lube and no were not gonna' take it out. Today monday AM the block went off to our favorite high end Speed Shop (Subie Specialists)/machinist. Let them deal with it. To get it out was surely gonna' work the threads big time...it was big time stuck. And yes oh search masta the tech he blew the hell outta' the hole and inspected each and every hole.ALL went in no prob' it was the last one #12 that was 'high' by about 3/8". SO...he went to back it out...easily now....and nada NO WAY IN HELL...and to force it might risk case damage also-i've seen this happen. They will use heat and proper methods to remove it. In 2 days time we'll see if he is telling the truth about what happened. One thing is for sure it bottomed out-it was not going any further...why force it? no way. This certain mechanic has been dealing with SUBIES for nearly 20 years as the landscape in the Lake Tahoe area is literaly crawling with subes'-they say 20% of the cars are SUBIE. He is no stranger to 2.2's, 2.0's, and 2.5 blocks and rebuilds...so let's not shoot him yet. IF it turns out to be his fault though I'll buy the pizza and beer for the 'Beat the Hell Outta Him Party' I'll post the machine shop results, dani'

[Vew]

Who is this 'search masta' you keep refering to?

It's been a long while since I've been to Lake Tahoe. Didn't realize it is such a big Subaru community there now.

[9d2TSi]

Damn Dani, I'm stumped now. I'm glad that the guy's going ot take care of it for you.

Originally Posted by Vew

Who is this 'search masta' you keep refering to?

Search Masta, at your service.

Changes sig to "Google King"...

Muhahaha.

[sekretskwirl]

...that I have seen, that's all. Subies are THE snow car....the more beat up the more status. Rust helps too. A ton of STI's and Blue WRX'S...NO light yella' like mine though....hehehe. If you're too loud: you get STOPPED period! Not unusual to be searched 4:20 STYLE as most partake so it's an easy deal for the shariff'. My SVX is thrashed,needs paint and body...runs like top though. THE SEARCH MASTA: that guy with the red car-man of mystery and endless knowledge.......X games were insane by the way. dani'