GROUNDED - Starting an EJ205 Rebuild - Page 2 - Subaru WRX Forum
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#16 Old 08-25-2014, 08:22 AM
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Shame, shame on someone, placing objects on the intercooler is no beuno :-D

2 months not to bad of turn around time considering what you had to deal with.
Ive been down since March, almost done myself just gotta double check everything and fill up with fluids and I'll be back in action as well.

Congrats man. :-)
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#17 Old 08-25-2014, 09:40 AM
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Thanks AllExtinct, I couldn't be happier being mobile and with the new built motor.

The clutch has a ring against the throw out bearing that needs to be pulled out along it's circumference once the motor is bolted to the transmission to get it to activate the clutch itself, as it's a pull type. You can do this with a big screwdriver through the clutch release lever hole before you put the release lever seal on it, while turning the motor slowly over manually.

Before we figured that out we damaged the throw out bearing, and the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor.


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blue '09 STi - lease return

Last edited by LW_Black4; 08-25-2014 at 12:02 PM.
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#18 Old 08-25-2014, 10:48 AM
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That sucks about the TOB.
So the throw out bearing doesn't just push right into the clutch with the clutch fork method? Maybe I misunderstood how you explained it.
When I bolted my engine and transmission together I had the throw out bearing on the spline with the clutch fork and after words just pushed the fork towards the rear of the car and and it sounded like it locked into place.

Did you end up just dropping the trans to fix the clutch?
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#19 Old 08-25-2014, 11:06 AM
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AllExtinct,

The TOB is mounted on the clutch fork to start, and slips into the clutch just fine when you butt the engine up against the tranny. However, since it's a pull type it needs to grab the clutch fingers to activate. I don't think it engages automatically, the annular clutch plate ring has to be pulled away from the throwout bearing for it to grab the clutch levers.

If you step on the clutch and it engages, you've done it properly. At first in our case, the clutch pedal just plopped to the floor and stayed there.

There's an annular ring on the clutch plate opening that the TOB sits in that needs to be gently pulled back toward the TOB for it to grab the clutch levers.

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blue '09 STi - lease return

Last edited by LW_Black4; 08-25-2014 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Clarity
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#20 Old 08-25-2014, 12:44 PM
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Gotcha.
Yeah I tested the clutch out after I pushed it forward and it sprung right back no problem.
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#21 Old 08-26-2014, 03:08 PM
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Here's us pulling the built motor one of the numerous times - sometimes in the dark - when the clutch bearing wouldn't activate the clutch.



And I even did some work myself - including holding a light when it got dark. Ha ha.



It's running strong now on a Stage 1 tune until the 1000 km oil change. After that we'll kick it up a notch, just in time for working the Sept 7 ATTS Beginner Lapping Day at the DDT.
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#22 Old 08-27-2014, 09:56 PM
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EJ205 header is wrapped now. Lower underhood temps, more efficient turbo and Cat operation, and reduced heating of the oil filter. The Lava thermal wrap was a gift from the Performance Shop, and it worked great!


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#23 Old 08-29-2014, 02:44 PM
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What did your tuner tell you about break in? I used regular oil to break mine in. Rotella is nice and all, it just has more Zinc I believe than current regular oils..Well glad to see you got this back up and running. You really should buy a nice 2.34L...I might know where to get one...lol
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#24 Old 08-30-2014, 07:51 AM
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psinuse,

If I had known it would be 2 months without wheels and $5,500 CAD, I would've looked for a used motor. Would have considered yours in a heartbeat. But if you sell it, what will you use?

This built motor is better for sure, but man it took way longer than expected.

Builder said to use 40W oil, and 50W oil in the heat. They use 5W-40 all year around typically.

Car Club folks recommend conventional until after break in, because synthetic additives aren't the best for ring sealing.

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#25 Old 08-30-2014, 12:42 PM
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I've seen post about wrapping casted oem headers and the results are not much as wrapping aftermarket headers being that the casted ones thicker and been known to hold heat a bit better than aftermarket.

Most people go with aftermarket because of the smooth finish inside for the less resistance in exhaust flow but tend to not hold heat so well which is why they wrap em up.

Some warn that wrapping cast is a bad idea as well as some claim they get to hot and crack.
But dont quote me on it.

I was going to wrap mine so i browsed around forums and decided to just keep the heat shields.

Cobb Accessport Stage 2.
JDM ej205 swap.

Hakuna Matata.

Chuck.
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#26 Old 08-30-2014, 09:04 PM
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I'll do some more research on the performance impact of wrapping of OEM headers Chuck.

The OEM heat sheids didn't come off well because of rust around the fasteners - probably because of Canadian winters.

I wanted to see if I could keep some radiant heat off the oil filter, given it is positioned so close to the exhaust header, is why I went with it. The up- and down pipes are wrapped with the same stuff.

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#27 Old 08-31-2014, 08:54 AM
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$5,500 CAD would be roughly the same here in the states. I've built at least 3 motors in the last year, although getting it to you would be a pain because of custom in the US...
Personally Synthetic Oil is a waste on a daily driven car. Break in on a new motor is different than it was when I was younger and I found this article on it..
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Give it a read when you get a chance. I'd recommend skipping the header wrap on the stock exhaust and just get replacement heat shields or if you're going to run a aftermarket header, wrapping it will cause it to break down faster, so again get custom head shields for it or get it coated...
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#28 Old 08-31-2014, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LW_Black4 View Post
I'll do some more research on the performance impact of wrapping of OEM headers Chuck.

The OEM heat sheids didn't come off well because of rust around the fasteners - probably because of Canadian winters.

I wanted to see if I could keep some radiant heat off the oil filter, given it is positioned so close to the exhaust header, is why I went with it. The up- and down pipes are wrapped with the same stuff.
The reason I was gonna wrap mine is when removing them off my USDM engine they pretty much fell apart. I guess 162k miles with the north with roadsalt will do that.
But when I got the JDM in they are in dam near perfect condition so I just reused them besides the bottom cover for the one exhaust manifold by the lower 02 sensor.

Im def gonna wrap my DP when I get some extra cash.
Seen alot of good reviews on that wrap though so you made out with that hook up.
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Cobb Accessport Stage 2.
JDM ej205 swap.

Hakuna Matata.

Chuck.
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#29 Old 09-02-2014, 08:48 AM
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My built EJ205 is now properly broken in and running on it's 91 Octane Stage 2 tune. This is great.

Because of age, we are replacing some of the tired intercooler plumbing on the turbo discharge side, items 5. air intake duct, 7. BOV gasket and 10. y-pipe in the diagram below:




Then we'll be "Ready to Rock!" Ha ha.

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blue '09 STi - lease return

Last edited by LW_Black4; 09-02-2014 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Ready to Rock!
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#30 Old 09-08-2014, 07:36 AM
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A full day at the track running with the big boys in the Instructor's run group - the built motor WRX is working marvelously. Same Stage 2 power as before but it feels similar to the 252,000 km motor it replaces.

I had a ton of fun!


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