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GROUNDED - Starting an EJ205 Rebuild

34K views 54 replies 6 participants last post by  LW_Black4 
#1 ·
It's not fabulous to be without a personal auto.

Looks like I've spun a bearing at 252,000 km and therefore need a rebuild. I have started working on it previously with a performance shop (Touge Tuning » Subaru and Japanese Performance Specialty Shop) in anticipation of a rebuild.

At the moment I have:

1. Rebuilt heads with cams,
2. Spare EJ205 shortblock with oil pan,
3. Gates timing belt kit, and
4. OEM Cam and front crank seals.

I want to rebuild it for tracking, but I’m not planning power upgrades past Stage 2. Intend to deliver what I have to my performance shop, get a rebuilt long block with timing belt kit installed, and then help my mechanic remove and replace the engine in my gf's driveway when the longblock is ready.

I think I prefer:

5. 4032 alloy forged pistons,
6. ARP head studs, and
7. 'toilet seat' baffle oiling mod.


Internal components Needed
-New Bearings (Rod and Main)
-Forged Pistons
-ARP Head Studs
-Head Gaskets
-Seals

Should the oil pickup be replaced as well, and what else should I consider?

 

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#6 · (Edited)
Pulling out the spun bearing EJ205 this weekend.



Spare short block being sent to the builders Thurs when all the parts arrive:

-New Bearings - King
-Forged Pistons - Mahle
-ARP Head Studs
-Head Gaskets - Cometic
-Seals
-Crank - Re-Use Original
-Rods - Use '04 STi rods
-KillerB oil pickup
-KillerB oil baffle





Happy that it's being rebuilt by Canada's version of Crawford Performance, Gord Bush Performance.

http://www.gordbushperformance.com/
 
#7 ·
Shipped the old EJ205 to Touge Tuning for parts swap to the rebuilt motor.



Collecting the fluids for reinstall. Going with a 20 minute oil change, followed by a 1,000 km oil change.

 
#9 ·
Kirt,
The spare short block has 130,000 km on it and hasn't spun a bearing, so that step won't be required. However, the builder will document all the clearances.

If I eventually rebuild the short block that has spun a bearing, we'll check out the crank and block for damage as you suggest.

Thanks,
 
#11 · (Edited)
Spare shortblock was opened up and confirmed that it too has spun bearing issues, requiring a crank- or crank repair- and connecting rod. We had planned to upgrade the con rods with STi items so that's not an issue, and will now replace the crankshaft with an OEM item. Build budget just went up by $550 CAD plus tax.

"The OEM forged steel crankshaft from Subaru is quite good quality and can be used for reliatively high performance engine builds without concern. 2.0L applications use a 75mm stroke. STI Version 8 and newer crankshafts are generally surface hardened and feature cross-drilled mains to improve the oil flow to the rod bearings.

Usually ships in 1 to 2 weeks.
Manufacturer: Subaru" [RalliSpec]

 
#14 ·
From bobistheoilguy.com:

Built EJ205 + Specs - Understanding Break-in Procs

"You'll find many different recommendations for breaking in a built EJ engine. Here's Cobb's recommendations:

Technical Articles

The most popular break-in oil is probably Rotella 15W-40 so you're on the right track there. Motul, Amsoil, and RP break-in oils are good as well. Most don't switch to synthetic until after some of the initial short intervals.

And the Built Motor forum at nasioc is a good resource:
Built Motor Discussion - NASIOC

Just don't be one of those guys that doesn't follow the builders' advice and ends up needing a rebuild.

-Dennis"

I was planning to run this Rotella T for the recommended break in:

1. 20 min oil change - warm for 10 min, run at 2000 rpm for 5,
2. 100 km oil change - intentionally vary the rpms constantly in this first drive, but do not to exceed 5500 rpm, and
3. 1000 km oil change - avoid constant rpm running.

 
#15 ·
We are back in action after 2 months without wheels. Man I miss driving this machine! :)





A bad clutch release bearing caused a few dry run installs which wasted time, but aside from that it went smoothly after we got the built motor.
 
#16 ·
Shame, shame on someone, placing objects on the intercooler is no beuno :-D

2 months not to bad of turn around time considering what you had to deal with.
Ive been down since March, almost done myself just gotta double check everything and fill up with fluids and I'll be back in action as well.

Congrats man. :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Thanks AllExtinct, I couldn't be happier being mobile and with the new built motor.

The clutch has a ring against the throw out bearing that needs to be pulled out along it's circumference once the motor is bolted to the transmission to get it to activate the clutch itself, as it's a pull type. You can do this with a big screwdriver through the clutch release lever hole before you put the release lever seal on it, while turning the motor slowly over manually.

Before we figured that out we damaged the throw out bearing, and the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor.

 
#18 ·
That sucks about the TOB.
So the throw out bearing doesn't just push right into the clutch with the clutch fork method? Maybe I misunderstood how you explained it.
When I bolted my engine and transmission together I had the throw out bearing on the spline with the clutch fork and after words just pushed the fork towards the rear of the car and and it sounded like it locked into place.

Did you end up just dropping the trans to fix the clutch?
 
#19 · (Edited)
AllExtinct,

The TOB is mounted on the clutch fork to start, and slips into the clutch just fine when you butt the engine up against the tranny. However, since it's a pull type it needs to grab the clutch fingers to activate. I don't think it engages automatically, the annular clutch plate ring has to be pulled away from the throwout bearing for it to grab the clutch levers.

If you step on the clutch and it engages, you've done it properly. At first in our case, the clutch pedal just plopped to the floor and stayed there.

There's an annular ring on the clutch plate opening that the TOB sits in that needs to be gently pulled back toward the TOB for it to grab the clutch levers.
 
#21 ·
Here's us pulling the built motor one of the numerous times - sometimes in the dark - when the clutch bearing wouldn't activate the clutch.



And I even did some work myself - including holding a light when it got dark. Ha ha.



It's running strong now on a Stage 1 tune until the 1000 km oil change. After that we'll kick it up a notch, just in time for working the Sept 7 ATTS Beginner Lapping Day at the DDT. :)
 
#22 ·
EJ205 header is wrapped now. Lower underhood temps, more efficient turbo and Cat operation, and reduced heating of the oil filter. The Lava thermal wrap was a gift from the Performance Shop, and it worked great!

 
#23 ·
What did your tuner tell you about break in? I used regular oil to break mine in. Rotella is nice and all, it just has more Zinc I believe than current regular oils..Well glad to see you got this back up and running. You really should buy a nice 2.34L...I might know where to get one...lol
 
#24 ·
psinuse,

If I had known it would be 2 months without wheels and $5,500 CAD, I would've looked for a used motor. Would have considered yours in a heartbeat. But if you sell it, what will you use?

This built motor is better for sure, but man it took way longer than expected.

Builder said to use 40W oil, and 50W oil in the heat. They use 5W-40 all year around typically.

Car Club folks recommend conventional until after break in, because synthetic additives aren't the best for ring sealing.
 
#25 ·
I've seen post about wrapping casted oem headers and the results are not much as wrapping aftermarket headers being that the casted ones thicker and been known to hold heat a bit better than aftermarket.

Most people go with aftermarket because of the smooth finish inside for the less resistance in exhaust flow but tend to not hold heat so well which is why they wrap em up.

Some warn that wrapping cast is a bad idea as well as some claim they get to hot and crack.
But dont quote me on it.

I was going to wrap mine so i browsed around forums and decided to just keep the heat shields.
 
#26 ·
I'll do some more research on the performance impact of wrapping of OEM headers Chuck.

The OEM heat sheids didn't come off well because of rust around the fasteners - probably because of Canadian winters.

I wanted to see if I could keep some radiant heat off the oil filter, given it is positioned so close to the exhaust header, is why I went with it. The up- and down pipes are wrapped with the same stuff.
 
#28 ·
The reason I was gonna wrap mine is when removing them off my USDM engine they pretty much fell apart. I guess 162k miles with the north with roadsalt will do that. :laugh:
But when I got the JDM in they are in dam near perfect condition so I just reused them besides the bottom cover for the one exhaust manifold by the lower 02 sensor.

Im def gonna wrap my DP when I get some extra cash.
Seen alot of good reviews on that wrap though so you made out with that hook up. :)
 
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