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-   -   engine pull 101 (http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/engine-pull-101-a-29978/)

wagonracer 12-19-2010 11:01 PM

engine pull 101
 
6 Attachment(s)
I started working on the car I just bought with the spun rod bearing and other potential problems [url]http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f103/bought-another-bug-eye-29954/[/url]

First step, get the bad motor out. Since I know the short block is a goner and the condition of the heads is unknown. I'm using the engine pull method used by the flat rate techs to replace the short block, and I remembered to take pics. Here's the car, on stands ready to drain: [ATTACH]5014[/ATTACH]

And a shot of the poor neglected engine bay: [ATTACH]5015[/ATTACH]

I drained the oil and coolant and removed the radiator, fans reservoir and all. All this takes is disconnecting the fan plugs, removing the two upper radiator brackets, upper hose and lower hose from thermostat housing. Unclip the power steering hose and out she comes. I also removed the intercooler, battery, and air filter box. No instructions needed for those: [ATTACH]5016[/ATTACH]

Next to get out of the way are the accessories and belts. Unplug the harness connector and pos. cable. Remove the alternator pivot bolt and stay, drop it down and off the belt and Alt come. Three 12mm hold on the power steering pump. Remove those and the 12 below the turbo coolant tank to free up the lines, unplug the wire and put the pump aside, on top of the ABS module. You have to take the reservoir off its bracket first:[ATTACH]5017[/ATTACH]

This is when a lot happens at once. I remove all 8 of the 12's that bolt on the intake plenum, unplug the oil pressure sender, crank angle sensor, cam position sensor, knock sensor and coil packs. I remove both the oil breather hoses from the valve covers and the cruise control throttle cable. This allows the plenum to be lifted enough to remove the 14mm on the back of the AC compressor bracket. Remove the rest of the 14's that hold that bracket to the block and put it aside where the battery was.[ATTACH]5018[/ATTACH]

With that done, make sure everything else is disconnected, so that the plenum can come off the block. I think all that is left are the throttle body coolant lines, the vacuum line to the boost control solenoid, and the rest of the plugs by the BCS. I unbolt the bracket that holds the main harness plugs (by the battery) so that the plenum can be flipped up out of the way. This eliminates the need to undo fuel lines, brake booster, throttle cable etc. Putting the accessories aside preserves the R134 and power steering fluid, and eliminates a lot of unnecessary disassembly:[ATTACH]5019[/ATTACH]

Remove the cast coolant pipe from the top of the block, and set it up with the plenum. No need to undo the heater hose from it, just the other one.

wagonracer 12-19-2010 11:21 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Next, remove all the bell housing 14mm bolts that you can reach from the top. The starter can stay connected and just hang out off the way. Now it's time to get under the car and remove the 14mm nuts from the bell housing studs (always a little tricky) using swivels and extensions. Remove downpipe and the engine mount nuts while you're down there. All that's left is the pin that goes through the clutch fork. This is accessed by removing a 10mm hex cap from the side of the tranny, and threading in a 10mm bolt into the end of the pin, and working it out. This one gave me some trouble as there was no grease left on the pin at all and it took some creative washer stacking and leveraging to pry it out. Also push the post from the slave cylinder aside from the fork. This pic was before I removed the starter, but it's other wise what it looks like before the pull (the blue shop towels will keep crap for getting into the engine): [ATTACH]5020[/ATTACH]

I didn't take pictures while pulling the engine out with the hoist, but I ran into one snag with this method. With the plenum sitting on the drivers side fender the o2 sensor was not going to clear the passenger side frame rail, so I just removed both manifolds and crossover pipe all at once. I would have just taken out the sensor, but some idiot rounded off the 22mm hex. Looks like I'll be replacing that. I also had the breather from the passenger side valve cover to intercooler hose disintegrate, and the turbo inlet hose was pretty much mush at the turbo end. As the engine comes out the parts list starts to grow.....[ATTACH][ATTACH]5022[/ATTACH][/ATTACH] I put the long block on a stand, and will start breaking it down to remove the heads tomorrow. I'll try to remember to snap shots of that whole process when I get going on it.[ATTACH]5023[/ATTACH]

newtothegame 12-20-2010 10:22 AM

Awesome write up (as usual). About how long (given minor annoyances) should/would it take to get the engine out?

wagonracer 12-20-2010 02:23 PM

I got it out in about 4hrs, but spent a bit of extra time on the clutch fork pin, and was working in a new place (not very well set-up yet) Expect anywhere from 3-6 hrs

turmic 12-20-2010 10:33 PM

Wagonracer, what is that tricky bolt or nut that is on the heads? My tuner really bitches about that part of taking the heads apart. They just pretty much damage a socket to fit that bolt/nut. Because its metal sleeved with plastic or something? I forget exactly what it is...is it a cam bolt or nut? All I can remember from my engine build was that they buy a couple sockets and pretty much just damage a socket onto it to get it off. If you know what I'm talking about. Do you have any pointers on how to take that bolt or nut off easier than what they do?

wagonracer 12-20-2010 10:56 PM

1 Attachment(s)
The ones that are a real bi-atch when removing the heads are the cam sprocket bolts. everything else is straight forward. The head bolts take a pretty good amount of leverage to break, but I don't know of anything else that would give problems.

The trick I use to remove the cam sprockets, is the cams have a couple different places that you can put a box end on. One of the cams (intake I think) has a square cross thing at the end that you can put a 24mm on. There's also a flat spot in the middle of the cam, and the hex up at the front. That takes a 1 1/8" (my metric set only goes to 24mm, I think that's a 28mm) The "special" wrench that Subaru provides to grab the sprocket looks useless to me.

That being said, I removed the heads this morning and between the wind blowing and my daughter and nephew needing entertaining, I failed to take pics except for the one below. I just wanted to "git 'er dun" I got everything but the pan off in about 3 hours. The engine was in time and the valves look great. Since I'm working outside (not at the shop) and it's winter, I'm sending the heads to the same guys who are building the short-block, to do the valve work for me. I'll give props to [url=http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com]Welcome Duners[/url] again here.[ATTACH]5024[/ATTACH]

sdunlimited 04-21-2014 06:50 PM

Why bump a 4yr old thread? Because this one is really good. Thanks for the thorough write-up and pics on how to make quick work of this job.


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