Dopey's build part 1 The engine - Subaru WRX Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Dopey's build part 1 The engine

Hey everybody, I would like to share my engine build. I am not a expert and this is my first engine build. I don't have much experience except working on my cars or a friends cars. Frankly, I had no interest in cars until I was given a Honda Civic when I got my G1 license 4 years ago. I felt extremely vulnerable going to mechanics trusting that there not over charging me for things I don't need or if they will even do the work to my car. So I've done my best to learn what i can about cars in the last 4 years and it has really turned into a fun hobby for me.

Again I'm not a expert but hopefully my build might be able to help somebody else. If I didn't have the internet I would have never been able to rebuild my engine. I wish I could thank every forum, write up, and youtube video that I have seen/watched but I'm going to give a shout out to just two youtube videos that really helped me.

https://youtu.be/uNpc-sUVYXc
https://youtu.be/1AD6ctzHO2M

Ok on with the build. I have a white 2008 Subaru WRX hatch. I got rod knock after purchasing the car and I decided I could rebuild it cheaper and stronger then a used sti engine(about $4500cad around here). I ended up spending $5450.00(Damn cams put me over) not including oil,paint,specialty tools,alot of brake cleaner,gasket maker, and ect. I would say the total is closer to $6000canadian.

My mods are as follows:
-Manley Rods
-Manley Pistons
-Brian Crower Stage 2 cams
-Manley Valve Springs (stock retainers and valves)
-ARP 2000 Head Studs
-ACL Rod Bearings
-ACL Main Bearings
-OEM STI Crankshaft
-Gutted TGV valves (motor and partial rod reinstalled)
-Secondary Air Pump Deleted
-Self Made Magnetic Oil Plug
-NGK Iridium Plugs
-awdtuning.com open source base map

EVERYTHING ELSE IS STOCK hp will come when I upgrade my fuel system and exhaust in the future but for now im broke
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry not too many pictures of the tear down
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post #3 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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The first two pictures show my rod bearing shredded and the last two pictures you can see the damage to the road and crankshaft.

The third and forth picture show what looks like cracks in my engine case witch really concerned me until I found out its called aluminum flashing and its completely normal, most engines and cast aluminum parts will have it somewhere on the part
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post #4 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Here is my rods and pistons
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post #5 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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I never ended up using the flat white on my oil pan instead i used por15 gloss black
I forgot to take a picture of it but I used Duplicolour self etching primer witch was recemended by my machine shop for working on engines as well as my plastic intake (holding up fine after 2000km)

Then I painted the short block with VHT Black Pearl

VHT Burnt Copper is for my heads
Metalcast blue chrome for my intake
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post #6 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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The bearings are easy to install just make sure you install them so they are flush with the case or with the rods(only fits one way)

The rods are numbered not because they have to be in that order but to match the top of the rod to the bottom when they have been separated. For OEM rods and pistons it matters witch rod/piston goes to witch cylinder but for aftermarket it dosn't matter.

In the sixth picture you can see I put 3 new rubber oil o rings gaskets and 1 new coolant o ring gasket

Then I sealed my case with Permetex Ultra Grey
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post #7 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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I had the machine shop grind and measure my rings for me witch where all .023" - .024"

and here is some more pictures of my pistons
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post #8 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Here I'm loading the pistons into the shortblock

2nd picture you can see the piston is lined up with the access hole with the first c clip installed(first c clip you install with piston out)
3rd picture you can see I have installed the wrist pin
4th picture you can see I have installed the last c clip

I repeated steps in pictures 2,3,and 4 to all pistons
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post #9 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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My Brian Crawer Stage 2 Cams for the first three pictures

Picture 7 I have painted the heads with PlastiKote Engine Primer
Picture 8,9, and 10 with VHT Burnt Copper
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post #10 of 26 Old 01-27-2016, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures of my heads and valve covers
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post #11 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Painted my oil pan with POR15 witch is a special rust paint witch claims it stops rust forever(nothing last forever but im sure it will outlast the vehicle)
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post #12 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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The first picture shows where the oil pump goes. I prepped it with Ultra Grey and I replaced the rubber o ring

I then installed the studs and loaded them with tones of ARP grease/lube

VERY IMPORTANT your ARP head studs have to be cycled 3 times. You have to go through the torque sequence in three separate tightening steps(30,60,90ft lbs) then loosen the nuts in the backwards order of the sequence and repeat.
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post #13 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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When I first installed my cams it felt like they where way too stiff (couldn't turn it). So my machine shop polished the the cams with a leather laith.
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post #14 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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I primed my intake with Duplicolour Self Etching Primer then painted it with the Blue MetalCast

I was looking for a chrome blue look like the cap but your suppose to paint over chrome for that effect Mine came out more navy blue
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post #15 of 26 Old 01-28-2016, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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I will post the rest tomorrow
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