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Done With Rebuild But Have Rev Issues

8K views 25 replies 12 participants last post by  turmic 
#1 ·
im done rebuilding my ej20 but i will only rev to 4500 and then starts to backfire. ive checked all my intercooler piping and there are no leaks my bov is hooked up the same as when it came off in starting to get frusterated if any one has any suggestions, it would help me big time.
 
#3 ·
the only thing done is
APR Studs
TD05 Turbo
Turbo Inlet
Catless Up-pipe
Catless Down Pipe
Cat Back Exhuast
AEM Intake
Crank Pulley
HKS SSQV Bov

I keep throwing P1086 Tumbler Sensor Low Input LH
P1088 Tumbler Sensor Low Input RH

It Idles Fine Till About 3500 And Backfires And Dosent Rev Any Higher Than 4500
Does Anyone Know How To Properly Install The Tumbler Motors And Pos Sensors?
 
#4 ·
Why do you not have any injectors listed and who tuned the car?Why did you mess with the sensors on the TGV's?The sensors are just like any other TPS.You have to preload the spring inside.FYI-stating all this information in your first post would have gotten you answers alot quicker.There seriously needs to be a sticky on how to ask a technical question.I'm betting the codes you are getting are causing the car to go into limp mode because either it thinks the TGV plates are closed or they are closed.If you did the TGV delete than you should have listed that too.....
 
#5 ·
ive got stock injectors , and when i originally posted i didnt have the tgv codes, and i havent deleted the tgvs. when i had the intake manifold off the car i was going to delete them and pulled the sensors and motors, but i read up on them and someone said that unless your pushing 30 or more psi of boost its point less, so i desided to not do it.
 
#6 ·
Okay that is your problem as well.You cannot run stock injectors on ANY upgraded turbo especially if you have no tune.A small 16G flows over 100cfm more than the stock turbo at 1bar.You said TD05 turbo.What TDO5?18g small16G,Big 16G,Evo III 16G........You are probably leaning your engine way out...........this is pretty basic knowledge.No offense,but maybe you might want to think about having a professional tuner/installer work on your car.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
my issue with having someone tune my car is that they are 250miles away and 7000ft in elevation difference and ive seen guys go down and pay 500-600 dollars to have there car tuned and come back up with the same shit running car. what im wondering is how hard could it be to tune it my self, i been looking at the cobb access port and it seems pretty staright forward. oh and by the way i got my tgv figured out .....with the intake manifold on the car i was turning the valves to what i thought was closed but actually open and putting the motors on so they were wide open when they should have been closed, and really the only way to do it right was to have the manifold off open em put on the sensors then hold the valves closed and install the motors. so now all ive got to figure out is the tuning issue and get larger injectors??? what do you recommend for injectors, as for the make of my turbo i hate to say it but its an ebay item no brand just td05. it was only like $550 and my original turbo was toast. you seem pretty knowledgeable and i appreceate your help with everything and if you have some suggestions that would be great. and could a bad tune cause a P0303 Code (Cylinder 3 Misfire) To Occur?
 
#8 ·
If you have never tuned a car this would not be the time to start.I would check this with an air compressor,but I garentee that turbos wastegate actuator is like 15-18psi.Some people have had problems with those turbos.You need at a minium 55cc injectors for that turbo.
 
#13 ·
ROFL Whoops!Forgot the zero.

bluesubiaz said:
the ebay add said it had a 0.8 bar wastegate that of which would be about 15 pounds but when it was running good it never spiked over 1.0 bar and ive got it routed to the factory boost controller and everything the way its running i feel like its got a boost leak, but only if i get into it and when i do my cel starts to flash and i check my codes and im still getting p1086 and p1088. which is still those damn tgv's oh and my cylinder 4 misfire.
1bar= 14.5psi.Takes 5-10 minutes to test the wastegate.You don't even have to remove it from the turbo.Seiously,take your car to a professional.You pretty much have done irrepairable damage to your brand new motor already.The flashing CEL is BAD
 
#10 ·
yeah bro...you need a tune...or else your car will cease to exist...tuning requires alot of knowledge as well as experience...a shitty tune is as good as no tune...if you dont want to have it tunes then buy some sort of EM...like the cobb AP and use a custom map..they have plenty of map combos for TD05's and 550cc sti pinks.
 
#12 ·
the ebay add said it had a 0.8 bar wastegate that of which would be about 15 pounds but when it was running good it never spiked over 1.0 bar and ive got it routed to the factory boost controller and everything the way its running i feel like its got a boost leak, but only if i get into it and when i do my cel starts to flash and i check my codes and im still getting p1086 and p1088. which is still those damn tgv's oh and my cylinder 4 misfire.
 
#14 ·
so i was looking under my hood getting ready to test my wastegate and found my cylinder 2 and cylinder 4 hanging off so i reatched them and hook up my obd 2 reader and no codes so i thought ill drive it a little and ive got no problems or stutters or anything and im still only pulling 1 bar which is no more than before i rebuilt it , but i am still going to take everyone advice and get it tuned (im always down for more power). how exactly do i test the waste gate???
 
#15 ·
ok so im ready for you guys to hate me but im in need of help to reistall my TGV Motors And Sensors My check engine light came on again and im getting the same codes (p1086 & p1088) im 150% positive there not installed right, the car runs great until about 5500 rpms and pulling only 0.8 bar, then studders a little and 0.8 bar is less than the car was pulling in boost before the rebuild. after the studder i get misfire codes only cyl 2.
 
#16 ·
look you dont have to get a tune you can run your stock injectors for almost up to 22psi i dont know who these have been talking to but im gunna guess they have never built there own shit i think your problem is the sensors on the tumblers your best bet is to just delete them , the only thing with that is you will have a check engine light stays on

but i have a fully built 2.5 with 2.0 heads with the following mods, ceramic headers wih external wastegate and perrin down pipe, turbo intake ,perrin fuel rails, greddy front mount wit greddy type rs bov , ported turbo inlet , tumbler deletes ,greddy electronic boost controller and i bumped my boost up to 20 psi also i have a stock ecu and injectors no tune
 
#17 ·
WOW... are you for real? Your car must run like crap. How long have you been driving your car like this? Your injectors are maxed out for sure and I bet your AFR's are lean as hell. Stock turbo still? Did you upgrade the fuel pump? Seriously, are you for real?
 
#22 ·
Big deal.I have been wrenching on cars for almost 20 years and have built many motors.Building motors and tuning OBD II ECU's are two totally different things.Thats what you don't seem to understand.It's common knowledge that stage 2 2.0L WRX's even with EM (leans out the AFR mixture) still run out of injector around 17-18psi and going towards redline.This is common knowledge in the Subaru community that has been documented by tons of enthusiests and professional tuners.Your running a 2.5L block with 2.0L injectors at 20psi.There is a reason the 06+ WRX's come with 565cc injectors.I tune using a wideband O2 for AFR readings and a laptop to datalog.Read these,then come back and talk to me...

Amazon.com: How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems (Motorbooks Workshop): Jeff Hartman: Books

Amazon.com: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning: Greg Banish: Books

Amazon.com: Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance): Corky Bell: Books
 
#25 ·
Thank All Of You For All Your Help. Im sorry to say that im now looking for a new motor i was driving home form work one day and stopped at a stop sign and it quit. just before it was making a ticking noise on the left side of the motor only at 3200rpms, at 3100 nothing and 3300 nothing. i tryed to turn it over and can clearly here the starter stuggling. a friend of mine said i might have hydrolock so i pulled the plugs and tryed to turn it over and the same thing happened. i think it probably leaned out and basically welded my pistons to my cylinder walls. so next time i deside to rebuild a motor im going to not try to save money on cheap park and not even turn it over till it sitting in a tuning shop, most likely DYNOCOMP.
 
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