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2.34L build

41K views 170 replies 11 participants last post by  LW_Black4 
#1 · (Edited)
So I have some parts lying around the garage and the wife wants me to "clean it up." So I am considering doing another 2.34L build, just the shortblock for now, and will use this thread as a means of showing the build progress.
I happen to have a used, but in great condition 2.0L crank, 05STi block and a set of STi rods. Other than a bore and hone the block is in great shape and the rods were reconditioned units I got in a trade. So I will need some pistons, rings, bearings and other odds and ends.

Now with that being said the build will be slowed due to me having to work 2 jobs and an up coming surgery that will have me unable to do things for a couple of weeks. I will push forward and make it happen. I will sell this one to someone, who knows maybe one of the guys on here will that keep blowing motor will want it...:D I'll post some pictures when I get home tonight from work.
 
#88 · (Edited)
I'll look at it when I get the stuff in. I think I'm annoying my tuner with asking about updates. ROFL Thanks for the info though.

Update: I bugged him...lol, jesus he is going to hate me. I'm the buggy customer.

Update 2: They bought parts that are 2009 compatiable. So, that means I should have the 11mm oil pump.
 
#91 ·
Update: Nothing to update progress has been slowed to a crawl due to work and life issues...Really starting to get piss about both jobs and not having time to do the things I want to right now. I do apologize for my lack of pictures as well..
 
#92 ·
Well since it's been raining all day finally got a chance to measure the crank and connecting rods. Have to find my torque wrench...It has grown a pair of legs since I used it the other day, that or one of my dogs carried it off and buried it...:pity: Anyway here is a quick pic of the crank and rods sitting ready to be put together. I am aware of the date on the camera being wrong, but I haven't read the instruction on how to change the date....:p
 

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#93 ·
I want to tear an engine apart and build it some day... I've never done it, but I'd like to think I pay close enough attention to details that I could probably figure it out with a manual and some advice from the forums. Looks like a fun project.
 
#94 ·
Just take your time and make sure everything is clean. Then clean it again...haha Some people think it's like a black art, but in reality it's not that hard. I usually measure everything 3 times then write down the average of each measurement. It helps when you have to go back and replace something, also keep photos handy of stuff so you know where it goes...
 
#95 ·
I'm having issues measuring my bearing clearances... I don't have a bore gauge so I'm using plastigauges...

Mains are coming out on the high side of spec, about .038mm but the crank mic's out for std. size bearings (triple checked this myself and verified by the machine shop), which I'm using.

It could be the fact that the only plastigauges I can find are from .001 to .003" (.001" being like .028mm), so they aren't exactly what I need in terms of size. I even mic'd out the bearing thicknesses and they came back at what the service manual says they should for std. size bearings, so I'm thinking my plastigage skills suck.
 
#96 ·
Oh please use the right tools. I hate it when people tell me, oh I just plasti gauges everything and it was okay.. Maybe for a standard rebuild, but for a high performance motor:nono:
 
#98 ·
Might I suggest borrowing one or renting one. Unless you build a number of motors or have a use for the tools, you are looking at a pretty penny for everything needed.
 
#102 ·
Loud ass knocking that gets louder and faster as rpm's go up.

Also lots of little gold flakes in your oil.
Ok, sweet... well then I'm 85% SURE MY CRAZY NOISE IS not A ROD BEARING yay!!!
mY 02 WRX makes a knocking/rattling sound at 3ooo rpm's and nothing under 3ooo rpms and goes away around 3600 rpms....must be T.O. bearing or something else...
 
#103 ·
Could also be the timing belt tensioner... Those are known to go bad and make a knocking sound that isn't always consistent with rev's.

Back on topic.... I think I'm just going to either buy a bore gauge, or have the wife's parents get me one for xmas... I have a long time before the block is going in barring any catastrophic failures (I'll have everything for the long block by March or so).
 
#104 ·
Buy used, have it calibrated and you're good. Also avoid the crappy plastic ones that are out now a days, those things suck at everything. I wouldn't even use one of those on a lawnmower engine. If you can do what I did and find an old machine shop going out of business and buy from them they usually let stuff go pretty cheap and most of the time you don't need the stuff calibrated...

new2subaru if your really worried about the motor failing you should have the oil tested by Blackstone, not to be confused with Keystone haha. Look for traces of metal flakes in your oil and yes check the tensioner they are know to go bad and if it locks up you will experience your first "Oh Crap!" moment.:notgood:

On a side note why does the word tensioner show up as a misspelling????:confused:
 
#109 ·
No one can tell you for certain if and when your motor will explode...Trust me you just never know, but keeping an eye on certain things will help prolong the life of the engine....I have seen motors with 160k on them go with a 16g turbo and still live to 190k without issues...
 
#110 ·
Lol, I wouldn't figure anyone could tell wether or not your motors going to explode. I am just inquiring from you guys to get all the knowledge and advise about the sub wrx I can. I appreciate all your input and advice. This is the best wrx forum on the net, you guys are very knowledgeable. Thanks. !Thumbs Up
 
#112 ·
Well made a bit more progress today since it's still raining out....Got the rods and crank placed in one case half. I will leave it for now and place the other case half on tomorrow as I am tired and need some sleep...This project is moving along very nicely and I can't wait to see how well this turns out.
 

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#114 ·
Yeah it will be that way for now. Please note that you don't see excessive assembly lube all over the place, I keep things clean to assemble my motors...I also just realized I don't have a rear main seal in my gasket kit...Damn it!!!!
 
#115 ·
Oh I know how it goes putting engines together. Not car engines, but helicopter ones, used to help my other guys when they needed a hand. It was fun, but like you said, a good idea to keep everything as clean as possible.
 
#117 ·
Well somewhere on Youtube I had a friend post a video of my car going to 9k on the dyno just to prove that it would do it...I will try and scout around for it. It is just a rev happy motor honestly. Lots of fun also, but I need a bigger turbo for it and that's why I am looking into a gt40 rotated of course.
 
#118 ·
Well got the pistons balanced and ready to drop in. 3 of them were dead on perfect at 371.83 grams, yes I measure out to .00 grams. 1 of them was 1.6 grams to heavy. Took some work, but managed to get it down to .02 grams out. The wrist pins were all the same at 151.24 grams so I couldn't switch them around to try and balance out the 1 piston... Well out of the 4 times I have used Wossner pistons this is the only time the sets weren't completely balanced out down to .1 gram. Meh things happen I suppose so I am happy. Sorry didn't take any pictures of it, but it's nothing really interesting. Just pistons sitting on a scale...lol
 
#119 ·
So in a turn of bad luck, I somehow lost a case bolt and had to order a new set of them. This really sucks because I had already laid down all of my o rings and my block sealant, which sets up pretty quickly. I placed all the bolts in and just snugged them down hand tight on one side, flipped the block over and and started to do the same on the other side when I noticed the one bolt missing...Didn't torque any of them down after I noticed the one bolt missing. Oh well I won't have time til Saturday to work on it again so I will just pull the top case half off, clean them up and reapply the block sealant once I get the new case bolts in and redo everything over.... So once that is done I should be able to put the pistons in and button everything up.
 
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